The Sunday Times - UK (2022-02-13

MYTH

‘Natural ingredients are

far safer than chemicals’

“This statement makes no sense,” Dr Sam Bunting

says. “Everything natural is made from

chemicals — because we’re all made from chemicals!

Some chemicals are harmful, others are not. Those

made in a laboratory are in no way inherently

more or less harmful than those made in nature.

What is important is dose.” Dr Cristina Psomadakis

agrees: “I would put any number of laboratory-

produced skincare ingredients on my face over poison

ivy. And poison ivy is 100 per cent natural,” she says.

Ejikeme explains that believing natural is safer has

led to a whole host of problems in her clinic. “I see so

many patients coming through my doors with skin

concerns such as acne, dermatitis, sensitivity and

even chemical burns from rubbing natural

ingredients like garlic on the skin. Don’t be fooled,

natural does not necessarily mean safer.”

MYTH

‘Tingling/burning from

acids means it’s working’

“Transient, short-lived and mild tingling or stinging

is expected with some skincare actives such as

exfoliating acids,” Dr Sharon Wong says. “Ingredients

that often lead to a tingling sensation are typically

exfoliants such as vitamin C, retinol and alpha hydroxy

acids [AHAs] like glycolic acid. However, if the

sensations persist or are very intense and the skin

becomes red and inflamed, then this is likely to be an

irritant or allergic reaction and product use should be

stopped.” The pros unanimously agree that the best

way to avoid irritation is to start slow and build up

usage as your skin shows it can tolerate the ingredients.

THE ABC OF ACIDS

AHAs work on the surface of the skin and are used

for improving texture and dullness. They exfoliate by

breaking down the glue between the top layers of

dead skin cells, leaving behind a glowy, smoother new

surface. One of the most common, and best

researched, AHAs used in skincare is glycolic acid.

TRY The Ordinary Glycolic Acid

7% Toning Solution, £7

Swipe over clean skin in the evening. Be sure to

follow with sunscreen the next morning, as skin will

be more sensitive to the sun.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) go deeper, helping to

unclog pores, which is why they are hailed as heroes

for clearing up breakouts and acne-prone skin.

TRY Paula’s Choice 25% AHA + 2% BHA

Exfoliant Peel, £31

This is a souped-up version of the brand’s iconic

Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, which

is the first product Sarah Jossel recommends when

people complain about under-the-skin bumps.

This wash-off, multi-acid formula, designed to be

used once a week, bulldozes rough, bumpy skin and

unclogs congested pores.

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) have similar benefits to

AHAs in that they exfoliate, but they tend to be better

tolerated as their larger molecules don’t penetrate

the skin as deeply. Sensitive skins proceed to checkout.

TRY Willowberry PHA Liquid Exfoliator, £29, from

Thursday Ideal for those prone to irritation, this

gently refines skin texture while still hydrating.

WHAT THE PRO LOVES

Cosmedix Purity Clean Exfoliating Cleanser, £37

This combines lactic acid with peppermint essential

oil. Dija Ayodele, the author of Black Skin: The

Definitive Skincare Guide, has had it in her skincare kit

for more than ten years. “It is great for gentle

exfoliation and doesn’t strip the skin so can be used

daily,” she says. “Because it’s lactic-acid based, it’s

suitable for most skin types, bar the very sensitive.

I even use it as a mask a few times a week. Just apply

neat to clean skin and leave on for up to five minutes.”

MYTH

‘I should pop my pimple

as soon as I see it’

“Popping pimples can be a bit of a gamble,” Michelle

Wong warns. “On the one hand it’s very satisfying

and can make them go away faster. On the other

hand popping can lead to permanent scarring

(especially if you do it badly) and can push the

infection deeper and make it worse. The official

recommendation is to never pop pimples yourself,

and go to a professional who can extract it with

minimal risk. But I’m going to be realistic and tell

you to learn how to do it as safely as possible.”

HOW TO POP

 Timing is crucial If your pimple looks like it’s

ready to burst on its own, then go ahead and pop.

 Cleanliness is key It may sound obvious but

make sure you have washed your hands

thoroughly before touching the spot.

 Soften the skin Try holding a warm, clean

flannel over the spot for five minutes — this

will allow the contents of the spot to come out

more easily.

 Avoid fingernails Wrap tissue around the tips

of the fingers you’re using. This will protect skin

from being punctured or scarred, and will

minimise the spread of bacteria.

 Pull, don’t push Instead of trying to push the

pus out, hold the skin taut on either side of the

spot. If it’s ready, it should drain.

 Clean up Apply an astringent such as witch

hazel to the area afterwards to help prevent new

spots developing.

EXPERT DIJA AYODELE

Florian Kaefmueller/Blaublut Edition EXPERT MICHELLE WONG

The Sunday Times Style • 37