Jeff Smith's Guide to Head and Shoulders Portrait Photography

(Wang) #1
While I like the boom, because I like to move the main light to unusual an-
gles and heights, many photographers have a hard time getting repeatable re-
sults because the boom allows forso muchmovement. Until you get used to
using a boom, or even taking control of your lighting, you may want to employ
the string technique for distance (see page 17) and your markings on the floor
(see pages 44–47) to help ensure consistency in your lighting.
Another lighting check that I always do occurs when I go through my pos-
ing variations. As I will explain in the chapter on posing, I go through a series
of poses for the client to select from. When I go into the first pose myself, I look
directly at the camera. If I can’t see the main light in my peripheral vision, the
light is positioned too far to the side (too far from the camera position) or too
high. With my lighting style, I know that if I see more than just the edge of the
main light in my peripheral vision, the light is not at the correct angle. While
this check isn’t as precise as the markings on the floor, it is my last chance to
check my lighting. (This technique also works on location and outdoors.)
Ring Lighting.The next lighting style is one I noticed becoming popular
in commercial photography, and even television commercials, six or seven years
ago. They used a large ring light, similar to the ring light used for macropho-
tography but three, four, or five feet in diameter. The problem was it was thou-
sands of dollars for the light itself—and then I would have to buy the power
pack to power it. Between the two, it was way more than I wanted to spend. A
few years ago, Larson Lighting (makers of the Starfish) started working on a
lower-cost unit—but it was still almost $2000 for a specialty light source. Finally,
Alien Bees released a small model that was around $600. At that point, I bought
one. It is smaller than I would have liked it, but it works well for the price.
The ring light, whether it’s a larger model or a smaller one, works on the
same principle as the small “around the lens” macrophotography version; you
position the camera in the middle of the ring. The lighting effect can be beau-
tiful, but like butterfly lighting it is not for everyone.
I call these two styles—butterfly lighting and ring lighting—my “pretty peo-
ple” lights, because it will make pretty people look stunning. If, on the other
hand, you try it on a girl who has a large nose, no checkbones, or otherwise
looks like Ichabod Crane... well, things can get ugly fast.

You’re Selling Memories.


While these styles of lighting are not all-encompassing, they are the most re-
quested styles of lighting—and therefore the best-selling styles of lighting—we
offer to our clients.
Kodak learned a long time ago that they’re not selling film, they’re selling
memories. People will pay more for memories than they will for a piece of film.
Unfortunately, photographers often have much loftier delusions when it comes
to “their” photography.

LIGHTING 55

ABOVE AND FACING PAGE—Using a ring light
creates an almost shadowless style of light-
ing often seen in fashion magazines.


The lighting effect


can be beautiful, but


Butterfly Lighting.

it is not for everyone.

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