southern boating

88 s SOUTHERNBOATING.COM s MARCH 2016

on a maintained trail—a 20-minute drive east of Roseau.
More famous and much smaller is the Emerald Pool, a
waterfall with a wonderful swimming pool. Just a flat, half-
mile hike from a nearby visitor center, the Emerald Pool
gets crowded when cruise ships are in port, so plan to
visit early or late.
If you really want to stretch your legs tackle part of the
115-mile—it winds a lot in the 30-mile length of the island—
Waitukubuli Trail, a national network of hiking trails that
follows old Maroon trails. One of the tougher parts of the
paths is the calf-busting 12-mile, roundtrip hike to the Valley
of Desolation and the Boiling Lake. Best attempted with a
local guide—the trail is steep and tricky, with deadly fern-
hidden drop-offs—the payoff is a prehistoric valley bubbling
with thermal pools and a spectacular (on the rare sunny days)
view of the island from 3,747-foot Mt. Nicholls. Nearby Boiling
Lake does just what its name implies at about 200 degrees, a
testament to the island’s ongoing volcanic evolution.
As you explore Dominica’s outback keep in mind its
legendary treasure. Back in 1567, a diplomat from Hispaniola
wrote home to the king:
"On the island of Dominica [...] there are some
Christians who have been taken captive by the
Indians. It is said that on this island is a great treasure
of gold and silver that has been hidden in a cave that
the Indians say was lost from several Naos [ships]."
The treasure has never been accounted for but most locals
swear it’s still here. If you’re up for a hunt, hire a guide and
explore the roadless northern coast of Cape Capuchin. The
phantom Carib trail—little more than a goat track in some
places—spiders along crumbling sea cliffs honeycombed
with caves and dipping into jungled canyons. Don’t despair if
you can’t find the whole stash. A few doubloons will probably
be enough to finance a new yacht.

CRUISER RESOURCES

— Dockage —

The Dominica Marine Center operates two full-service marinas.

You can bunker your yacht in either Roseau at the Newton

Marina or farther north at Portsmouth at the cruise ship dock

(when cruise ships are not docked). Yachts can also load fresh

water and other supplies. dominicamarinecenter.com

—Accommodations—

Fort Young Hotel

Victoria Street, Roseau

-Former 17th-century British fort with breezy rooms and suites

(767) 448-5000; fortyounghotel.com

Papillote Wilderness Retreat

-Rainforest lodgings in Roseau

(767) 448-2287; papillote.com

—Eateries—

Fusion Village

42 Old Street, Roseau

fusionvillagerestaurant.com

Purple Turtle Beach Club

Lower Lagoon, Portsmouth

(767) 445-5296

The “4 Seasons” Restaurant, Sunset Bay Club Beach Hotel

Batalie Beach, Roseau

sunsetbayclub.com

The Tomato Café

Banana Trail, Portsmouth

(767) 445-3334

Left: La Sorcière dive site (Witches Point) is just below a rocky cliff by the same name, also known as Carib's Leap. The area got its name from

local legends—Carib men were said to have tossed cheating wives off the cliffs, or that the last of the Caribs jumped to their deaths to escape

slavery. Right: Approaching Dominica's leeward coast by boat