Lonely Planet India - August 2016

(lily) #1

AZING SKYWARDS IS MY DEFAULT
setting in New York City.
No surprises there really; everything
seems to shoot out of the ground
to dizzying heights here. And even
though my face is upturned right now
to wallow in the novelty of snowflakes
settling on my eyelashes (embracing the magic of winter
however I get it) I’ve always been the gawking tourist
craning my neck this way and that taking in the bright
lights and steely splendour. The sheer wealth of things
to see and do here is overwhelming – so much so in fact
that I’ve never managed to make much of a dent in my New
York bucket list in the few short days that a visit invariably
lasts. Isn’t helped by the fact that I’m loath to move beyond
the things that I already know I love doing here...
So my mission which I have chosen to accept is to hit
pause on said bucket list and venture forth beyond the
obvious charms of Manhattan. It’s a difficult decision
to make – who doesn’t want to picnic in Central Park again?



  • but I’m willing to take one for the cause. After all
    as a visitor to New York it’s very easy to forget that the city
    extends far beyond Manhattan or even that there’s
    so much more to do here than pretending to be Godzilla
    at the top of the Empire State Building or taking a ferry
    out to see the Statue of Liberty. I’ll leave those galleries at
    the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Natural History
    Museum unexplored for now (sigh) and ignore the tacky
    pull of the bright lights at Times Square though maybe
    I’ll squeeze in a show on Broadway – there’s only so much
    you can give up! Instead of that picnic I’m going to eat
    my way through the smaller neighbourhoods – the villages
    that make up this island. I’m looking forward to losing
    my heart to yet another museum or two ones that haven’t
    been around all that long. And I know I’ll find some
    secrets that have been hiding right in front of me too.
    And you know what? I’m going to need to invest
    in a bigger bucket.


THE NEIGHBOURHOODS


The Brooklyn Museum is a revelation.
I’m all set to be confronted by that Brooklyn stereotype
the Hipster when I venture into the borough but my first
stop confounds me in a completely different way.
Why have I never come here before?
I haven’t even indulged my love for ancient Egyptian art
skipping those floors for an intriguing exhibit on Coney
Island that’s taken over the top floor of the museum when
I visit. This corner of Brooklyn is in my mind the definition
of Americana. Before World War II this is where the average
New Yorker went for the weekend – to lie on the beach walk
along the kitcshy boardwalks with a corndog in hand take
in the fantastical at the carnivals or go on crazy rides at one
of the amusement parks. The exhibit showcases all of this
beautifully and it’s only the equally intriguing exhibits
on the other floors that tempt me away.
Of the permanent exhibits one that deserves mention
is The Dinner Party – a room that celebrates womanhood
in an uncomplicated though provocative manner. What
is essentially just a dinner table complete with plates
cutlery and runner manages to tell quite a story.
Unni and I quickly realise that we’re going to have to tear
ourselves away and head back outdoors if we’re going to do
any more exploring; besides hunger strikes. We do as
Brooklyn does on Sundays and wait in line for brunch at
the colourful neighbourhood Mexican restaurant Chavela’s.
I’ll tell you one thing – we brunch here in Mumbai because
it’s the ‘thing to do’ but these guys they’ve got the right
idea – delicious pretty yet filling eats that straddle that
middle-ground between breakfast and lunch so perfectly.
My huevos ahogados is a hearty plateful of poached eggs
topped with a jalapeño hollandaise accompanied by
chorizo guacamole potatoes and mixed veggies mopped
up with a sweet Mexican bread and a strong coffee.
A step back now to quickly look at Brooklyn. In recent
years this part of New York has experienced a bit of

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