easily reaching speeds of 12kt to 15kt, efficient and
provide cost-free transport in a place where buying,
fuelling and maintaining a skiff is cost prohibitive.
A man’s very identity is inseparable from his
canoe and to race against his neighbours and to
win, the ultimate verification of his prowess. For
the man whose sons are excellent sailors, he is a
rich man indeed since he can send them far into
the lagoon or out to sea and have them help to
support the family.
The women are also competitive. We were
treated to lunch by Hanit (a.k.a Sweet Honey)
on Pihon Island for a number of days during
the races. She and her sisters grumbled that the
committee had failed to plan a women’s race,
even knowing that the races were of such import
that few men would allow a woman on his team.
But the women wanted to race.
Though there are many canoe racing committees
throughout the island group and races are
scheduled at different times of the year, the premier
racing season is August when the SE trades blow
the strongest, bringing 'big wind' and racing
fever to the people. This is when The Great Ninigo
Islands Canoe Race occurs and when we visited.
In 2016, we were the only visitors from outside
Ninigo and were treated like royalty. A small part
of the reason for that was, because of a snafu or
two, government funding for the 2016 races never
arrived. When the islanders reluctantly shared
this information with us, we proposed to donate
all the prizes for all the races from our boatload of
supplies: clothing, sunglasses, fishing and rigging
gear, copper nails, LED lights, headlamps, solar
panels and more. The islanders were enthusiastic
about the idea of winning the donations,
so seventy four canoes signed up to race over five
days in two locations.
We were thrilled to have been able to help to
preserve this important cultural event and we
encourage anyone with means to visit to do the
same. You will consider it an experience of a lifetime.GETTING THERE
During the cruising season, yachts can reach
across using the tradewinds from the east coast
of Australia and around the eastern end of the
big island of Papua. Check-in is convenient at
New Britain at Rabaul.
Gentle southeast trades f low west from
there, so the remaining 500nm to Ninigo, with
convenient stops in friendly Kavieng and the
Hermit Islands, is easy sailing.
From Darwin, a yacht might consider riding
the monsoon up and around the bird’s head of
Indonesia but this option requires tacking or
motoring against light tradewinds once on the
north side of Papua. Roughly about December
of each year, the monsoon shifts and westerlies
occur at Ninigo. This brings unsettled weather
but, with careful planning, could make the
sail from Indonesia easier. Vanimo is the most
convenient entry port for this routing.
Christmas is special in the Catholic villages of
Ninigo and visitors are warmly welcomed.
A tourist yachtsman visa is required to cruise
aboard your yacht in Papua New Guinea. In the
absence of a PNG embassy, visas for the master
and crew of 60 days are issued upon arrival by the
Customs Department, except in Port Moresby
where Immigration handles the visa. Advanced
arrival notice is recommended.
Visa extension of 30 days is possible, apply to
the Minister of Foreign Affairs and Trade.COCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT:
Ninigo donations
stowed on board
Carina.
Always smiling.
Leslie with one
of the locals.71
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