Asian Geographic - 01.01.2018

(avery) #1
Not far from where Enaje is getting
ready for the most gruesome part of
the dramatisation, another devotee,
Rolando Ocampo, 63, tells a similar
story: “I started to participate in the
Holy Week celebrations when I was
only 17. At that time, I only took part
in the procession to the San Fernando
cathedral on Wednesday.” But back
in 1990, he had a good reason to go
all the way to the cross. “My wife
was expecting our first son and the
doctor said she was in great danger
because there were problems with the
pregnancy. Both could die. So I asked
God to spare their lives and I offered to
feel His pain every year in exchange.
He was magnanimous, and I’m now
keeping my word,” he shares.
Both Enaje and Ocampo believe
that suffering the way Christ did will
keep them away from sin. They are
now somehow accustomed to the

long walks carrying the cross, with
the crude spikes of steel piercing their
hands. “I fainted the first time and my
mother cried a lot. It took a long time
to heal. But after a few years, it doesn’t
hurt that much anymore,” says Enaje.
Still, his wife is always close by to
check that nothing goes wrong.
At the cathedral, monsignor Ricardo
Serrano feels more and more worried
with every passing year: “Some
penitents believe that they can wash
away their sins by slashing their backs
and shedding blood. Sacrifice will set
them free, they trust. I don’t share their
opinion, and I will never encourage
such beliefs, but I can’t condemn their
faith either,” he shares.
Outside, a large crowd gathers to
watch the procession of penitents with
bloodied bodies. Some faint, but then
stand up again and keep going – until
their legs can hold no more.

“I fainted the first time


and my mother cried a


lot. It took a long time


to heal. But after a few


years, it doesn’t hurt that


much anymore”


Rubén Enaje, Catholic devotee


below Villagers and tourists
gather for the crucifixion of
penitents on Good Friday
in the village of Santa Lucia
in San Fernando City

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