Australian Wood Review – June 2019

32 Australian Wood Review

PROJECT

When the panel was dry, I removed the masking tape

and thicknessed down to 5mm, then sanded the back

and front faces once again working through 120, 180

and 240 grits.

Door joinery

For this cabinet, slip joins cut on the tablesaw with a tenon

jig were used to make the door frame (photo 13). Once

again I recommend cutting and dry fitting some test pieces

before diving into the timber you spent so much time

carefully selecting and machining up. This helps to eliminate

any potential issues without the stress of glue being involved.

Titebond III was also used to glue up the door frame and

once again I had clamps, glue and a wet rag on standby.

And again, I checked and double checked for square. I

like to recheck for square after clean up, just in case I have

unintentionally knocked my project out of square when

removing squeeze out.

Cutting and fitting the shelf

I took measurements from both the front and back of the

cabinet just in case there was any variation. A piece of solid

timber was cut for a not-too-tight fit before machining

down to 15mm thickness.

Placement of the shelf took into account bottle heights and

brass shelf mounts were fitted into the sides 15mm in from

both the front and back of the cabinet depth to carry the

load of the whiskey glasses.

Wall mounting

For the mounting piece I measured the internal width and

then cut and machined a piece of solid timber to a snug fit

(photo 14). The back edge was rebated to house the back

panel later on (photo 15).

9. Profiling the
   cabinet top and
   bottom edges
   with a trimmer.


10. Showing the
    cabinet carcase
    glued and
    clamped.


11. Wood for the
    cabinet was
    bandsawn, then
    bookmatched
    and glued.


12. Tape secures
    the glue joins
    for the back.

9

10

11

(^12) Ct’d p.34