M
eet Hana Assafiri. Over the last 20 years, the
Melbourne chef and activist has proved that
cooking can empower the vulnerable — first
through Moroccan Soup Bar, the North Fitzroy
restaurant that garnered a cult following for its chickpea
bake, and most recently with Speed Date a Muslim, a monthly
event that aims to confront stereotypes of Islam through food and
conversation. Here, she shares her formative culinary influences,
the dishes she returns to again and again and why she thinks
restaurants can break down boundaries.You moved back to Lebanon from Melbourne when you were five.
What were your earliest memories of eating there?The reality
is that upon our arrival in Lebanon everything became scarce
almost immediately. The fondest meal that comes to mind is
bread with a bit of mint, a drizzle of olive oil and a little salt –
if you were lucky!Who has had the biggest influence on the way you cook?For me,
food has always been synonymous with the intimacies between
women. My mum, initially, was the person who influenced
me, and then my eldest sister, who’s 17 years older and was
like a mother to me. I developed my perceptions about life
in kitchens and around food.What’s diferent about cooking and eating in the Middle East?
In the Middle East, men source the ingredients and bring it
to the women, who often put meals together creatively. There’s
also a lot of thought put into what a family is going to eat,
whether there’s enough protein or enough variety. The other
big difference is that we usually eat a bigger meal during the
middle of the day, not at the end of the day.Your first restaurant, Moroccan Soup Bar, celebrates its 20th
anniversary in June. How did it first come about?It was founded
to provide a safe space for women. I came from a 15-year
background in crisis intervention. The limitations of the
system I was working with meant that the most vulnerable
members of society were the least likely to be supported.
I then realised that cooking could bring Muslim women
together and validate their expertise. There was no funding
and nobody thought it was a good idea. Friends, family and
siblings all asked, “What are you doing?” We went against all
the conventions in the hospitality industry at the time: it was
vegetarian, there was no alcohol, people had to bring their own
takeaway containers, we had a spoken menu. Now with social
media, the more peculiar you are, the more people like you.
You have to back yourself, no matter how afraid you are.
It’s a lonely space, but by God it’s much more rewarding.What do you cook at home for comfort?There’s this weird dish
I make with spaghetti and yoghurt. It has yoghurt, tahini, garlic,
pine nuts, almonds, butter, spaghetti and salt and you eat it with
a green lettuce salad with lemon and olive oil. It’s so easy to make
and great when you just need a full belly and sense of satisfaction.Where in Melbourne do you eat?I’m simple, I’ll eat anything,
but I think when a place has integrity the food tastes better.
I go back to Punch Lane, and I like The European and Blue
Chillies. Otherwise, a falafel is good or a salad at home.In 2015, you launched Speed Date a Muslim, a free monthly event
that invites the public to ask Muslim women questions about their
lives. What’s it all about?Speed Date a Muslim is built on the
belief that human beings are decent, no matter how bigoted
or ignorant our perceptions may sometimes be. When you peel
away those layers by engaging with people and you watch people
become curious rather than prejudiced, that’s amazing.What’s next for you?We’re living in a time in which society is
fractured and disengaged. I’ve seen a sense of departure from
the things that make us human: our capacity to reason, to have
empathy, to be curious about one another. The next chapter
for me will be to re-engage community, to continue to empower
women and shift disadvantage. But it’s also about the wisdom
of knowing your limitations. This year
I want to bring everything I do back
to Moroccan Soup Bar, extend our
opening hours, and run some events
and conversation salons.Moroccan Soup Bar is known for
its chickpea bake. How did you
come up with such a hit?Constant
improvisation. I love textures and
crunch and taste, and the more I
offered my version of it, the more
the community had a hunger for
it. People think it’s a dessert, or it’s
lasagne, or nachos. Some have said
it’s like an orchestra in the mouth –
I think it’s the unusual combinations
of flavours. When I wrote my cookbook I was asked if I had any
trepidation about putting my signature dish in there but I said,
“No, the community made this dish, it’s theirs to have!”●“You have to
back yourself,
no matter
how afraid
you are. It’s
a lonely
space, but
by God it’s
much more
rewarding.”GOURMET TRAVELLER 29INTERVIEW NEHA KALE. PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA
How I eat