AustralianGourmetTraveller-June2018

(Sean Pound) #1
Rantissi’s restaurant Kepos
& Co, in Sydney’s Waterloo,
is known for its rustic hummus
pounded tableside with a
mortar and pestle. On the other
hand, over the road at Kepos
Street Kitchen, Rantissi keeps it
smoother with a food processo
“There’s no right or wrong
hummus,” says Rantissi.
“Only your preference.”

Toolkit

T


he word hummus in Arabic means “chickpea”. Older
cookbooks list the dish as “hummus bi tahini”, covering
its two key ingredients. It’s an ancient invention, the recipe
first recorded in Cairo in the 13th century. Seen far and wide
in the Middle East and Mediterranean, hummus is made in many
different ways, some served hot, some served cold, and, of course,
everyone thinks their version is the best. Classically it was pounded in
a mortar, which will give you a more rustic (and, yes, grainier) texture
rather than the smoother food-processor version most of us are more
familiar with today. My version here is made with a food processor, the
garlic and lemon kept on the subtler side. I hope you enjoy it.

Step by step


liquid, discarding the puréed
garlic pulp. This method gives a
smoother result with a gentler
garlic taste.

5


Drain chickpeas. Reserve a
few for garnish, and blend
the rest in a food processor until
they’re reduced to a smooth
paste; this will take about 7 to
10 minutes. Add 400gm tahini,
the reserved garlic water, a

teaspoon of salt and a pinch of
cumin and blend well, scraping
sides occasionally and adding
more water if necessary.

6


Transfer to a large bowl and
whisk in 100ml lemon juice
(be gentle; you don’t want to
over-aerate the hummus and
lose its dense consistency).
Hummus will keep covered
in the fridge for 5 days.

Heavenly hummusCanned chickpeas never have quite the same
flavour or silkiness, but simmering them for 20 minutes before
blending improves their texture. Good dried chickpeas are the key;
I use Kabuli chickpeas, from a grower in Toowoomba. Good tahini
also makes a diference. I find hulled tahini creamier and less bitter
than unhulled; the Durra brand is my favourite. To garnish, use olive oil,
cumin, paprika, toasted pine nuts or chopped parsley, or make a meal
of it with sautéed minced meat, or mushrooms and onion. Topping
hummus with burnt butter makes for next-level lusciousness.●

1


In a large saucepan or bowl
soak 150gm chickpeas in
cold water (at least 4 times the
quantity of the dried chickpeas)
for at least 12 hours – overnight
is good. I like to change the
water a few times to get rid
of any impurities or odours
produced by soaking to keep
the flavour of the hummus clear.

2


Drain the chickpeas and
rinse well. Transfer to a
large saucepan with a lid. Cover
with at least double the quantity
of water to the chickpeas and
bring to the boil. Simmer briskly
for 2 hours, topping up the
water as necessary. Some
cooks salt the water, but I have
never added salt to the soaking
or cooking water. I don’t like
any interference in the way the

chickpeas are hydrated; I
believe they soak up more
water when they’re not salted.

3


After 2 hours, if the
chickpeas have softened,
add ¼ teaspoon of baking
powder. (If not, continue
cooking until they soften up
more.) The baking powder
helps soften the outer shell of
the chickpeas to give a softer
and creamier hummus without
lumps. It also helps to soften
the inner part of the chickpea.
Cook for a further hour or until
chickpeas start to break down
but are not mushy.

4


Blend 5 garlic cloves in a
food processor with 200ml
water until very smooth. Pour
through a sieve and keep the

3


5
6

Masterclass

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PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR. STYLING ROSIE MEEHAN. FOOD PREPARATION PETA DENT


GOURMET TRAVELLER 33
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