Australian Stitches — September 2017

(Michael S) #1

upper-arm fullness may choose a
fairly streamlined sleeve that ends
with a dramatic cuff.
A blending of ideas is the secret for
these home sewers.


Pattern alterations
Length
The fi rst alteration will be for arm
length. It is important to measure
your pattern tissue carefully so that
the correct adjustment is made.
Normally we measure down from the
shoulder marking in the top of the
sleeve cap to the hemline. If there


are any design options such as cuffs,
turn-back facing, or sleeve extensions
that infl uence sleeve length, these
features must be accounted for
before shortening or lengthening the
sleeve. In particular, note that there
will be ‘blousing’ on the sleeve pattern
when a cuff is attached. The ‘blousing’
will be a minimum of 5cm (2in) and
upwards, depending upon garment
style. If you alter out the ‘blousing’,
when the garment is worn the cuff will
ride up the arm in an uncomfortable
manner. See diagram 4.
If your arm length is not

proportionate, you will need to
alter your pattern length in two
different areas – fi rst, the upper
arm and second, the forearm. This
is particularly important if fashion
dictates an unusual sleeve length, an
elbow dart, or special design detail
within the sleeve. By way of example
let’s describe a sleeve adjustment of
non-proportionate

Arm length
The arm length is standard with a
short upper arm and long lower arm.
If making a garment with a special


  1. Vogue
    V9006
    6. Vogue
    V7876
    4. Vogue
    V8581

  2. Vogue
    V9006

  3. Vogue
    V9029

  4. Vogue
    V1259

  5. Vogue
    V8816


Tips and Techniques

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