Australian Stitches — September 2017

arm if your arms are unusually heavy

or thin. It is important to measure

the fullest point ... in either case you

may wish to measure down from the

pivotal point to determine exactly

where this circumference is on the

paper pattern (important for pattern

alterations down the track). See

diagram 3.

Arm proportion

Once you have your measurements

in hand, you can judge the proportion

of your arm length for yourself. It is

diffi cult to say the ‘exact’ length of a

short or long arm since overall height

and body proportion comes into play.

Regardless, here are some guidelines:

for the average height person (5ft

5in – 5ft 6in or 163cm – 165.5cm),

the standard arm length is about

60cm (24in), for the shorter individual

(5ft 2in – 5ft 4in or 155cm – 160cm)

a length of about 58cm (23in) is

common, and for the taller woman

(5ft 8in – 5ft 9in or 170cm – 173cm)

a length of about 62cm (24 3/4in) is

standard. You will recognise this is

not always what is represented by the

paper pattern!

For the arm circumference, again

many factors come into play but

suggested measurements are

listed as follows. If your upper arm

measures greater than 30cm – 32cm

(12 – 123/4in) it is likely that you will

need some pattern adjustment in

a design with a slim-fi tting sleeve.

For the lower arm use the guideline

of 25cm – 27cm (10 – 103/4in), and

again consider altering the pattern

where necessary. For the slim arm,

your measurements will be under

25cm (10in) for the upper arm and

under 22cm (83/4in) for the lower

arm. Some pattern adjustments may

be required for the slim arm in a

voluminous design.

Once you have determined your arm

proportion (length), you must consider

the width of your arm in overall visual

balance. As an example, if you have a

long or standard arm length yet have

a full circumference, visually the arm

will look shorter. You will then need to

follow the guidelines for a short arm!

The reverse will be true if you have a

short arm that is thin – the arm may

look longer than it actually is!

Styling for arm length

Short arms

Whenever something is visually short,

it is important to streamline the

silhouette to give apparent length.

It is therefore important for the

individual with the shorter arm length

to attempt to stretch the arm out.

Choosing simple styles without too

much volume throughout, a standard

set-in sleeve armhole and a standard

shoulder line can do this. See photo 1

(on page 29).

If you are happy to expose your

limbs during summer, try a cut-away

armhole for the short arm – this adds

visual length. See photo 2.

Gathers, pleats, dolman and kimono

sleeves add too much fabric to the

silhouette, creating a shorter image.

The cut-on sleeve and capped sleeve

crop the shoulder length, giving the

impression of a shorter arm. Sleeves

made from dark rich colours with

minimal texture and pattern are best,

with the same colour carried to the

hemline. The sleeve should not fi nish

with wide cuffs, a turn-back cuff or a

contrast of colour or texture.

The length of the sleeve is the least

important feature if the short-limbed

individual follows the streamline

guidelines. Having said this, a short

sleeve closer to the elbow than the

shoulder camoufl ages a multitude of

sins, plus it looks great! See photo 3.

If you are full-busted, avoid a sleeve

length which stops at the level of the

bust point. The newest style of the

extended sleeve fi nishing with ruffl es

and frills needs to be considered

carefully. If worn by the short arm,

it should be long and lean without

ruffl es and preferably in a lightweight

draping fabric; if sheer, even better.

Long arms

The individual with long arms can

do all the things that the short arm

cannot. Fullness of design, unusual

silhouettes, interesting cuff fi nishes,

bright colours and print, lots of

texture, wide cuffs and contrasting

cuff turn-backs. See photos 4, 5 and 6.

What about the sleeveless

garment? This will depend the on

upper arm fullness and the confi dence

of the wearer. Some women just don’t

like to wear sleeveless designs for one

reason or another. If you are happy to

expose your limbs during summer, try

a cut-away armhole for the short arm

• this adds visual length. The extended
  shoulder or dropped shoulder without
  a sleeve shortens the upper arm
  making it a better choice for the long
  arm. See photos 7 and 8.
  The interesting combination of
  a long arm with upper arm fullness


• or the reverse, a short arm with
  thin upper arms – needs to be
  considered with care. A blending of
  the guidelines for both arm lengths
  and circumference must be found. For
  example, the person with a short arm
  that is thin may choose a gathered or
  puffed sleeve cap that works down
  to a tapered or streamline sleeve
  hemline. A fi gure with long arms and

1. Vogue V1412

Tips and Techniques