T
hirty top chefs and restaurateurs
gathered at Melbourne’s Vue de
Monde recently for the latest
Gourmet Traveller Food Forum,
a discussion of the key issues facing the
hospitality scene in Australia. Over lunch
created by Vue de Monde executive chef
Justin James, culinary powerbrokers and
key creatives discussed how the business
is changing and what innovations are
necessary right now for a restaurant to
survive in a crowded and sometimes
cut-throat market.
After a meal that included Port Phillip
Bay scallops with salted desert lime, duck
roasted with leatherwood honey served with
truffles and celeriac, and a coffee and
dessert buffet that tipped the hat to the
forum’s presenting partner, Nespresso,
GT managing editor Pat Nourse led the
discussion, assuring everyone that “this isn’t
a safe space – there are no holds barred”.
It was quickly established that it’s not
the quality of food in Australia that’s a
challenge, but how to make businesses
viable amid difficulties such as staffing.
Guillaume Brahimi of Bistro
Guillaume cited the overwhelmingly
positive response by visiting media and
industry figures during this year’s World’s
50 Best Restaurants awards – but what’s
needed, he says, is “more people to come”.“Melbourne restaurants do really well
on the weekends, but early in the week it’s
very quiet; to be a truly successful business
we need to be full every night,” he said.
So how to encourage people to come
out early in the week or more often? Shaun
Quade has been trialling the Tock booking
system (which sells meals in the same way
as theatre tickets) at Lûmé, and suggested
charging less for dinner on evenings early
in the week or more at peak times.
Alla Wolf-Tasker from Lake House in
regional Victoria said becoming part of the
community through charity work and by
using local producers has been integral to
her restaurant’s success, a point seconded
by fellow regional chef Matt Stone from
the Yarra Valley’s Oakridge.
Mike McEnearney of Sydney restaurant
No 1 Bent Street said there should be
greater transparency in pricing – including
name-checking suppliers – so customers
can more readily see where their dollars
are going, while Peter Gunn of Ides said he
opened his restaurant “starting with the
idea of making it viable and then building
the menu and the style around that” rather
than “starting with a fixed idea”.
One of the components Gunn had to
factor in was that people no longer want to
work the punishing hours that have been
traditional in restaurant kitchens. AaronTurner of Geelong’s Igni agreed, saying
that “we talk a lot about the sustainability
of our produce, but we also have to think
about the sustainability of our staff”.
Guy Grossi of Grossi Florentino said
the question of vocational training needs
to be addressed. “We need a clearer career
path for those leaving secondary school so
the skills shortage we’re experiencing now
doesn’t become chronic in 10 years’ time.”
Vue de Monde’s Shannon Bennett said
the regulatory system of Work Choices
makes it almost impossible for the industry
to attract young chefs wanting to start
their own business, though Chris Lucas
(Kisumé, Chin Chin) says you have to go
in with “structural impediments in mind”.
“And I think we’re getting pretty good
at it,” he added.
Distress over the recent death of chef
Jeremy Strode was palpable in a room full
of his friends and colleagues; questions of
health and hospitality work and achieving
a balance in the lives of chefs and their
staff were discussed at length.
Attica’s Ben Shewry, for one, said it’s
been “a year of self-reflection” for him, and
if the thoughtful and passionate responses
in the room are any indication, it’s been
the same for everyone. It was encouraging
to hear how much attendees care about
the industry and those who work in it. ●Signs of the times
Leading chefs and restaurateurs joined Gourmet Traveller
to talk industry challenges, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.
Melbourne’s Vue de Monde. Right, from
top: a selection from Nespresso’s coffee
and dessert buffet; Port Phillip Bay
scallops with salted desert lime; chefs
David Moyle, formerly of Franklin, Alberto
Fava of Tipo 00, and Martin Benn of Sepia.GOURMET TRAVELLER 61PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER
Event