Photography by Vanessa Walker (bicycle), Getty Images (girls on rail), Alamy (opposite). Vanessa travelled courtesy of Uniworld.
AUSTRALIAN HOUSE & GARDEN| 143
Nuremberg
ON OFFERCity tour, WWII tour, undergroundvaults.
I track Mila down in the ship’s games room, where she’s set up
camp with new friends. I herd her onto the bus for a short ride
to the medieval heart of Nuremberg, where we meet our guide.
Donning head torches, our party descends into a maze of vaults
carved from sandstone, used for making and storing beer as far
back as the 12th century. Regaled with scary stories, quizzes
and a few planted surprises, we have a fascinating introduction
to local life through the centuries. After we re-emerge in the
light of the square, Mila finds out this city is famous for its
lebkuchen(gingerbread), which we nibble on as we wander.
Back on board, we meet up with Jacqueline, who feels fulfilled
by her visit to Nuremberg’s Documentation Centremuseum
and the courtrooms where the famous war-crime trials took place.Regensburg
ON OFFERCity walking tour, kids’ walkingtour, tour of
Jewish Regensburg, BMW factory visit, beer tasting.
TheRiverAmbassadorhums quietly on the Main-Danube
Canal. There are 60 people aboard, including 17 children, who
are suspiciously hard to find. It transpires they’re rehearsing for
a concert, between raids on the candy bar. After rounding up
Mila, our family visits the BMW factory in Regensburg, where
Transformer-like robots assemble cars. It’s a fascinating insight
into technology, but the simple walk the three of us take in the
afternoon is what I really treasure. We explore the magnificent
ornate alleys of the ancient town square, the three of us caught
up in the delight of discovering something new together.
By evening, when Jacqueline and I attend an on-board beer
tasting, we are both as happy as can be.Straubing
ON OFFERAdayintown,glassfactoryvisit,wagonride,cycling.
Mila and I hop on bikes and ride to a 12th-century church in
Sossau with exquisitely gilded interiors. On our return, we meet
up with Jacqueline, fresh from shopping in Straubing, then take
a bus with other families to the Theresienthal glass factory.
We’re treated to a glass-blowing lesson; afterwards, we drive
into the forest, where a horse-drawn wagon is waiting to take us
through the local villages. It’s so much fun, we break into song.
The ride ends at a family home, where we eathot bread straight
from the outdoor oven that generations have used for baking.
Back aboard the ship, a beautiful meal awaits us, followed by
a quiet night gliding along the canal. >THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOPThe well-appointed
ship’s lounge, where a window seat scores an ever-changing view.
Sailing along the Danube, there are plenty of opportunities to
step off theRiver Ambassadorand see the sights. Hire a bike to
meander at your own pace. The magnificent Cathedral of St Peter
in Regensburg.OPPOSITEHistorical Nuremberg in Germany was
the first port of call on this trip of a lifetime.Slow and
spectacular