Australian Wood Review – June 2017

11

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PROJECT

butt hinges hidden within a thin 3mm bead that also
adds some simple decoration to separate the main chest
from the lid.

Fitting the keeper to the chest lid is made easier with a
small piece of double-sided tape. Place the tape on the
surface of the keeper to be rebated into the lid and lock
the keeper into position (photo 1 2 ).

Close the chest lid and apply some pressure to the lid to
activate the double-sided tape before unlocking the lid and
reopening. You should end up with the keeper stuck to the
lid of the box in the exact location where the housing is to
be marked.

After marking with the marking knife, cut the housing with
a trim router before cleaning up and screwing into position.
At this stage the chest is complete with all hardware fitted.

Internal tool trays

There are a multitude of methods to make divided trays
suitable for tool storage but I opted for the simplicity of a
mitred frame with a plywood base glued into position for
additional strength.

Trays like these look best when made with material in
proportion and for this application the sides were machined

to a sectional size of 35 x 7mm. I chose to cut a very small

decorative bead with a scratchstock on the top outside

edge of the tray sides before cutting the rebate on the

router table that would house the plywood base.

With both rebates and beading complete, the sides can be

cut to length on the tablesaw. For accuracy, set up your

tablesaw with stop blocks for repeat mitre cuts to ensure

the trays will be perfectly square (photo 1 3 ).

To simplify the glue up of the trays, lay out the sides end

to end on a flat surface and tape across the mitred joints

before turning the taped pieces over to apply glue to the

mitres (photo 1 4 ). Fold the taped joints together to form

a box and apply small pins or brads to the mitres to hold

them in position.

Glue and nail the base into position prior to the mitred joints

drying to ensure everything is held perfectly square. Making

trays in this way is very quick and accurate and if done

correctly will require close to no clean up and final fitting.

Internal dividers

To avoid the need for cutting housings into the tray sides

to take dividers I decided to cut dividers with a cove shape

that not only supported the chisels but also provided a

wider base suitable for gluing to the tray bottom.

11. Sand the escutcheon
    flush to leave a gap
    free fit.


12. Place the tape on the
    keeper to be rebated
    into the lid and lock the
    keeper into position.


13. Cut the tray sides to
    length on the tablesaw.


14. Tape across the mitred
    joints then turn the
    taped pieces over to

(^1314) apply glue to the mitres.
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