delicious Australia – June 2017

1

Dazzling red velvet banquettes, quirky

historical portraits and ouzo-based cocktails

are among the highlights of ODESSA (above),

a new subterranean lounge located beneath 1821

restaurant in Sydney’s CBD. The Greek-Russian

motif suggests a Catherine the Great biopic as

directed by Baz Luhrmann. Chef David Tsirekas is

offering treats including truffle cheese toasties.

The classic dessert,

redolent of ’60s France,

is having a moment. At

Bistro Rex in Sydney, it

comes with rum-infused

pineapple, custard and

your choice of five aged

rums (right). Meanwhile,

at Cumulus in Melbourne,

the yeasted cake is soaked

in a vanilla and orange

sugar syrup and served

on pastry cream.

Verdict: magnifique.

RUM BABA

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CUTLER & CO PHOTO

EARL CARTER

RADIANT REVIVAL

Cutler & Co., Andrew McConnell’s iconic

Melbourne restaurant in Fitzroy, has

undergone a facelift. Architect Iva Foschia

has ushered in glass archways, tassel-like

chandeliers, leather booths, green granite

walls and a marble bar whose colours

evoke champagne and oysters. As if

you needed any more reasons to indulge,

“the front bar is now a stand-alone venue

for a quick drink, a platter of fruits de mer,

or an abalone tonkatsu sandwich”, says

McConnell. A mid-section space is

equipped with a chef’s table, while the rear

dining room is warmed by a Cheminees

Philippe fireplace. In a word, toasty.

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At the heart of new Mornington

Peninsula hotel Jackalope is

DOOT DOOT DOOT (above), a refined

restaurant illuminated by a 10,000-globe

chandelier. Chef Guy Stanaway’s tasting

menus, matched with Willow Creek’s

wines, are equally lustrous. A disc of yuzu

curd, matcha and sesame is one canny concoction.

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One of the standout dishes at LA LUNE,

Paul McGivern’s nouveau wine bar in South

Brisbane, is this painterly salad (above right) of

various beets, shaved cauliflower and wild rice from

chef Peter Moon. Pair the exquisite beet medley with

a glass of Allies Assemblage pinot noir for its sweet

cherry and earthy notes that complement the vegies.

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Edited by George Epaminondas

delicious.com.au 33

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