BORN IN BRUNSWICK
CUISINE
Contemporary, seasonal
CHEF
Josh Retzer
VISIT
410 Elizabeth Street,
North Hobart, Tasmania
OPENING HOURS
Tuesday-Sunday, 8am-3pm
BOOKINGS
No phone, walk-ins only
borninbrunswick.com.au
PRICE
$$$$$
BYO
No
OTHER FEATURES
Opening for dinner in spring
CHILD FRIENDLY
YesA SINCERE WELCOME
upon arrival at a restaurant
can change one’s entire
dining experience. When
I visit Born in Brunswick
in Hobart’s north I’m a little bit cagey.
A restless night, delayed flight and
oh-so-trite roadwork stoppages have
me wearing my grumpy pants – up over
my waist.
So yes, I arrive at Born in Brunswick as a
fully fledged member of the grumpy club,
only to be greeted by a smiling face.
“Good afternoon, sir, welcome. How
was your day? We’ve got some great
beers, can I start you off with a drink?”
There’s a wonderful energy about Born
in Brunswick, and that seems to rub off
on everyone who visits. Before I know it,
the grumpy pants are off, replaced firmly
with party pants.
The restaurant’s light-filled space is
all soft grey walls, blond Tasmanian oak
furniture and polished concrete floors.
Runs of greenery, floor-to-ceiling
windows and rows of skylights bring
the outside in, giving the space a natural
breath of fresh air – something they’ve
gifted the brunch and lunch market for
the time being.
Owned by mates Ben Korkmaz and
Con Vailas, Born in Brunswick sounds like
it should be in Melbourne. Indeed, it’s
inspired by former MasterChef contestant
Vailas’ time in the food capital for filming.But the restaurant is a sign of the times
for the Apple Isle’s burgeoning food
movement: smart operators bringing the
best of their travels home, but proudly
celebrating the local, too.
The duo hired the services of young
chef Josh Retzer, who is proving to be
one to watch. Although his food could
do with a bit of restraint, his technical
prowess, combinations and confidence
result in dishes that are playful and
a joy to eat.
The satisfying, toothsome give of
cuttlefish plays a game of twang, chew
and crunch with daikon, compressed
apple, pickled fungus, charred cucumber
and apple dashi. It’s a wonderfully lively
dish, the kind that coerces you to smile.
Then lightly cured venison has its own
party with poached stone fruits, black
garlic, rye and burnt butter that, with a
heavier hand, could get, well, a bit out
of hand. But here, it works.
Juniper and wattleseed are front and
centre in cheesecake form, rounded out
with native honey, caramelised white
chocolate and macadamia. It may be a
little foreign to some, but I quite liked it.
A restaurant bringing joy to those
looking to leave their troubles behind
at the door is a boon for Tassie. Letting
go for a few hours, eating, drinking
and talking with friends in inviting,
comfortable surrounds – Born in
Brunswick has your back.This Apple Isle newcomer sets the bar high in style and substance,
and charms the (grumpy) pants right off Anthony Huckstep.delicious.com.au/eat-out
For more of our critic’s dining picks.@huckstergram @anthuckstepTASSIE, BORN & BRED
CLOCKWISE:
cheesecake; the cheesecake; the
light-filled dining light-filled dining
room; cuttlefish.room; cuttlefish.PHOTOGRAPHYNATALIE MENDHAM34 delicious.com.auREVIEW.