PARIS
Phoebe Philo’s long, lean silhouette has defined minimalism in the 2010s
for the busy woman who demands chic without looking like she tried too
hard. For fall, Philo’s signature pieces didn’t disappoint. The tuxedo jacket,
the long-line shirt dress worn over tailored, loose pants, the slip dress (in
a restrained bubble version with a contrasting empire bustline) were all
instantly covetable and welcome additions to any wardrobe, really. But last
season’s neat lady bags were gone, replaced by oversized black nylon
totes—the perfect size to stash the snuggly blankets draped over some of
the models’ arms.
CÉLINE
CHLOÉ
Imagine Chloé’s gypset boho girl travelling back
to the late ’60s, hanging out with Marianne
Faithfull, then taking a detour through the
early ’90s. That would be Clare Waight Keller’s
final collection of “psychedelic optimism”
for the house that Gaby Aghion founded in- Twiggy-worthy hemlines such as on
an abbreviated slip dress were all but hidden
under soft-shouldered fur coats, notably one
in a flannel check that you could easily imagine
Courtney Love wearing. Elsewhere, there were
classic Chloé looks: cutout lace dresses, billowy-
sleeved blouses, embellished gowns, a new
pants silhouette with a low-slung waist, and, of
course, a new version of the Pixie handbag.