delicious Australia — November 2017

(Wang) #1

77


RARE PEARLRARE PEARL
It’s impossible not to feel like you’re It’s impossible not to feel like you’re
on cloud nine at on cloud nine at CirrusCirrus (23 Barangaroo (23 Barangaroo
Ave; cirrusdining.com.au). The name of Ave; cirrusdining.com.au). The name of
the Barangaroo restaurant, hatched by the Barangaroo restaurant, hatched by
chef Brent Savage and sommelier Nick chef Brent Savage and sommelier Nick
Hildebrandt, refers to both cloud formations Hildebrandt, refers to both cloud formations
and oceanic creatures. Sustainable seafood and oceanic creatures. Sustainable seafood
is the star: start with the sublime smoked is the star: start with the sublime smoked
ocean trout parfait, proceed to sweet mud ocean trout parfait, proceed to sweet mud ocean trout parfait, proceed to sweet mud
crab or grilled marron, then share the whole crab or grilled marron, then share the whole
baby kingfish. The harbourside space, baby kingfish. The harbourside space,
flushed with natural light, was conceived flushed with natural light, was conceived
by architect Pascale Gomes-McNabb. by architect Pascale Gomes-McNabb.
“It’s serious food and wine in a casual “It’s serious food and wine in a casual
setting,” says Hildebrandt. setting,” says Hildebrandt.

88


BISTROBISTRO A GO A GO-GO-GO
Sydney’s CBD boasts numerous Sydney’s CBD boasts numerous
eateries for corporate titans to live large, eateries for corporate titans to live large,
but only one is known for its onion soup, but only one is known for its onion soup,
Niçoise salad and twice-baked souffle. Only Niçoise salad and twice-baked souffle. Only Niçoise salad and twice-baked souffle. Only
one has a pastry cart groaning with sweet one has a pastry cart groaning with sweet
temptations. Only one is under the auspices temptations. Only one is under the auspices
of French-born chef and restaurateur of French-born chef and restaurateur
Guillaume Brahimi. Guillaume Brahimi. Bistro Guillaume Bistro Guillaume (259 (259
George St; bistroguillaumesydney.com.au) George St; bistroguillaumesydney.com.au)
has a toney interior by Blainey North that is has a toney interior by Blainey North that is has a toney interior by Blainey North that is
a suitable home for such attractions. For a suitable home for such attractions. For
al frescoal frescoal fresco eaters, a patisserie counter offers eaters, a patisserie counter offers eaters, a patisserie counter offers
superb sandwiches, pastries and coffee.superb sandwiches, pastries and coffee.superb sandwiches, pastries and coffee.

99


THAI ME UPTHAI ME UP
David Thompson is the Thai food David Thompson is the Thai food
innovator who emerged in Sydney, then set innovator who emerged in Sydney, then set
off to open star restaurants in Bangkok and off to open star restaurants in Bangkok and off to open star restaurants in Bangkok and
London. He returned to his hometown last London. He returned to his hometown last

veers from grillo, a crisp Sicilian white, veers from grillo, a crisp Sicilian white,
to nebbiolo with sure-footed thinking. to nebbiolo with sure-footed thinking.
Service is sophisticated, as is the dining Service is sophisticated, as is the dining
room sheathed in glass and dotted with room sheathed in glass and dotted with
sapphire-blue chairs. A mezzanine bar sapphire-blue chairs. A mezzanine bar
and sundeck are more reason to return.and sundeck are more reason to return.

1111


BANK ON ITBANK ON IT
Named for English naturalist Sir Named for English naturalist Sir
Joseph Banks, Joseph Banks, BanksiiBanksii (33 Barangaroo (33 Barangaroo
Ave; banksii.sydney) has a botanical Ave; banksii.sydney) has a botanical
credo illustrated by its zippy colour credo illustrated by its zippy colour
scheme, seasonal dishes garnished scheme, seasonal dishes garnished
with natives, and drinks menu showcasing with natives, and drinks menu showcasing
vermouth. The aromatic fortified wine vermouth. The aromatic fortified wine
is the ideal accompaniment to Hamish is the ideal accompaniment to Hamish
Ingham’s luminous cooking – thank his Ingham’s luminous cooking – thank his
wife, Rebecca Lines, for that revelation. wife, Rebecca Lines, for that revelation.
Hits include grilled prawns and an Hits include grilled prawns and an
enticing trifle, but the standout dish is enticing trifle, but the standout dish is
a salad of broad beans, young peas and a salad of broad beans, young peas and
aged goat’s cheese. On temperate days, aged goat’s cheese. On temperate days,
dining outside alongside harbourside dining outside alongside harbourside
vistas is divine.vistas is divine.

year with a branch of year with a branch of Long ChimLong Chim (corner of (corner of
Pitt St and Angel Pl; longchimsydney.com), Pitt St and Angel Pl; longchimsydney.com),
like the prodigal son carrying a bushel of like the prodigal son carrying a bushel of like the prodigal son carrying a bushel of
birdseye chilli. Speaking of heat, spice birdseye chilli. Speaking of heat, spice
fans will get a kick from fans will get a kick from chiang mai larpchiang mai larp
of chicken, which is consumed in small of chicken, which is consumed in small
bites over the course of a meal. Start bites over the course of a meal. Start
with superlative fish cakes (the city’s best) with superlative fish cakes (the city’s best)
or crunchy prawns, then explore the or crunchy prawns, then explore the
meticulous menu of street-food-inspired meticulous menu of street-food-inspired
noodles, curries, stir-fries and grilled dishes. noodles, curries, stir-fries and grilled dishes.

1010


PERRY GOPERRY GOOOD D
Neil Perry is behind several Neil Perry is behind several
estimable city restaurants. estimable city restaurants. RosettaRosetta (118 (118
Harrington St; rosettarestaurant.com.au) Harrington St; rosettarestaurant.com.au)
is the latest. Southern Italy is the starting is the latest. Southern Italy is the starting
point for the extensive menu. Any meal point for the extensive menu. Any meal
here should begin with crudo, such as here should begin with crudo, such as
scampi with blood orange, or yellowfin scampi with blood orange, or yellowfin
tuna with salsa verde. Calamari and tuna with salsa verde. Calamari and
zucchini zucchini frittifritti is an antipasti highlight, while is an antipasti highlight, while
a substantial main of rosé veal a substantial main of rosé veal cotolettacotoletta
could easily be shared. The wine list could easily be shared. The wine list

TOP: TOP: Neil Perry’s latest Neil Perry’s latest
offering, Rosetta. offering, Rosetta. OPPOSITE OPPOSITE
(clockwise from top left): (clockwise from top left): a Thai feast at a Thai feast at
Long Chim; Hubert’s theatrical surrounds; Long Chim; Hubert’s theatrical surrounds;
find takeaway treats and French classics at find takeaway treats and French classics at
Bistro Guillaume; Banksii and Cirrus make the Bistro Guillaume; Banksii and Cirrus make the
most of their Barangaroo location; (inset) most of their Barangaroo location; (inset)
Moreton Bay bug with house-made XO at Cirrus.Moreton Bay bug with house-made XO at Cirrus.

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