Seacock servicing is an
annual job that should
never be missed. Internally,
check handles that are
firmly attached and there
is no play as you move
them. Keep in mind that just
because the handle moves,
it doesn’t mean the actual
valve is opening and closing!
Brush off any green buildup
on the bronze with a wire
brush and check the hose
connections. Don’t over-
tighten them though, as
seacocks are generally made
out of soft bronze. Lubricate
the ball valve from the outside
with a dab of water-resistant
grease and manipulate. Get
a helper outside to put a plastic straw
through the inlet to confirm the ball
opens and closes fully. It is best to do
all of this with a seacock diagram of the
hull, something that you should laminateand keep to hand on board, ensuring that
you service every valve on board and can
locate them in an emergency. Getting
familiar with those hidden away behind
cushions is a useful exercise in itself.It’s imperative that your stern gland is in good
condition as it’s a potential source of water
ingress. Boats sink every year due to glands
failing, and this happens slowly in the marina
as well as offshore, particularly if you’ve
had something caught round the prop
with the engine running and it’s been put
under strain. It must be fixed on the hard,
so it’s worth tackling while you’re already
hauled out. Spinning at many revolutions per
minute, the shaft is lubricated by seawater
that passes through the longitudinal gaps
in the Nitrile seal. It’s important that these
are free of grit so the shaft spins freely.
The prop itself only
needs intermittent
servicing, but a
clean and polish
on the workbench
will improve
performance
every few years.Prop, shaft
& stern gland
Seacocks
EXPERT ON BOARD
Prop anodes often need to
be adapted to fit properlyCarefully check all
seacock connections