Yachting Monthly – May 2018

EXPERT ON BOARD

TYPES OF ANTIFOULING

A significant annual purchase,

which antifoul is best is a hotly

debated topic. In truth, the best

product varies a lot depending

on the boat, what you use it for

and where you keep it. There

are three main types...

1

ERODING

As the name suggests, eroding

antifoul removes itself with

friction, revealing a layer below that

continues to protect and actively

reject growth. Biocides protect

the hull whilst reducing the long-

term buildup of product that

can otherwise wear unevenly.

2

HARD FILM

If you’re on a drying mooring,

you’re more likely to use hard

film antifouling. Resistant to high

pressure felt from mud and silt,

hard film products leach biocide

over a period of time without any

of the film of the paint eroding.

3

COPPER BASED

Copper-based antifoul

products work particularly well

on new or recently restored hulls

where a very smooth application

can be achieved. Despite their initial

high cost, a copper-based coating

can last a number of years.

REGIONAL CONSIDERATIONS

Oban and Largs are well known to

experience heavy barnacle growth,

whereas Southampton Water

experiences much lower levels

of fouling due to the large amount

of industrial traffic passing up and

down. It’s well worth researching

what’s proven to work in your area

and talking to the professionals.

Deciding which jobs to take on yourself and

which to hand over to a yard is, for most, a

question of time and budget, and all of the

checks here can be done by a yacht owner

if they are so inclined. Some safety-related

checks, however, should always be tackled

by a specialist. While it’s easy things like

a liferaft that you hope never to use, their

functioning correctly is absolutely critical,

so it’s not worth the risk. They include:

^ Gas check

^ Fire extinguisher servicing

^ Fuel and oil testing

^ Liferaft, EPIRB, Jonbuoy

and lifejacket servicing

^ Rigging check

Be sure to follow service schedules and

keep records as any future buyer of your

yacht will probably want to see them.

Finally, expiry dates on flares should

never be ignored.

It’s likely that your mast has remained

up over winter. Getting up the rig, giving

it a thorough clean and a look over is a

worthwhile exercise but it shouldn’t be

mistaken for having a professional rigger

check that it is safe. When you’re at the

top of the mast, install and reconnect the

anemometer, which should be taken off

over winter as they always seem to suffer

damage from birds. Check your masthead

lights are working and that any masthead

blocks are running freely. If you have a furling

headsail, check the mechanism is running

smoothly at the top of the mast as well.

Rigging

Replace the through-hull

transducer with the blank plug.

Travel lift strops easily damage it

THE EXPERTS

Tom Wright graduated with

a first-class honours degree

in yacht surveying and

production. He works across

all trades managing projects

at Berthon Boat Company.

Tom Cload has worked in

the marine industry all his

life. His family owned Cload’s

Chandlery for over 100 years

and his first job was as a

rigger, before running a boat

yard for 11 years. A qualified

marine surveyor, he is one of

Berthon’s project managers.

Masthead anemometers are

vulnerable to damage over winter

Specialist

safety

checks