http://www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA JUNE 125
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MONCLER X PIERPAOLO
PICCIOLIXLIYAKEBEDEIf you were empowered with the freedom of thought,
how far would you go? When you glance at the puffer
jacket gowns created for the collection, the obvious
nod to maximalism by way of sheer size and vol-
ume is unmissable. But at second glance, the
same dress that was thought of in layers and
layers becomes a product of maximalist thought
and not just design. For the second season of
the Moncler Genius project, where designers re-
imagine the label’s down jacket, Pierpaolo Piccioli,
creative director at Valentino, called upon Ethiopian
supermodel and activist Liya Kebede to explore dif-
ferent avenues of clothing—Piccioli yards deep in
couture, and Kebede working at the grassroot level
(she owns her own ethical clothing label out of Afri-
ca, called lemlem). Together they crafted an image
that was omnipresent—models of different origins
owning space in brightly hued gowns in fabrics no
one imagined before. “I am after a balance of dream-
iness, extravagance and soulfulness. I involved Liya
Kebede in the process, creating something true to
her, to Moncler and to my own sensibility. Connect-
ing diversities is my idea of inclusive creativity,” said
Piccioli of the unique collaboration.—Rujuta Vaidya13
BOBOCALCUTTA
He made khadi kurtas in down-to-earth colours before he
let fantasy and sparkle enter his world. Ayushman Mitra
aka Bobo shows us how without minimalism there would
be no maximalism.
What you do as an artist and a designer—is it max-
imalism?
My work may be maximalist, but that by no means sug-
gests that I do not appreciate minimalism. I fi nd I handle
“too much” better. My art has always spelled chaos; I like
the rhythm that it creates. I do the same with my clothes.
What’s the most fl amboyant piece you’ve made?
There are two of them actually—a short jumpsuit and an
oversized blazer. Both have more than 40 hues juxtaposed
together, completely hand-embroidered with thread and
embellishments.
Your clothes have a deeper message. Tell us more.
I choose glitter, beads and sequins to spread messages of
same-sex love because it lightens the topic, makes it an
easier truth to swallow. I use chaos to make it a puzzle
that the wearer can solve to discover its true form.
Do you remember your earliest tryst with fashion?
I started by making men’s khadi kurtas in solid shades
and earthy hues. But I always dressed the characters in
my paintings in colour and shine. I guess that was the
beginning of my label. —Akanksha Kamath ■
A W ’ RESORT ‘