PROJECT Drill vice/clamp
52 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking October 2019 http://www.getwoodworking.com
The final result should look like that shown
in photo 3.
Making the movable jaw
Measure 15mm in from one end and square a
line across. Centre punch the centre of the piece.
This is easily found as the location where the
two pieces were glued clearly stands out. Drill
a 10mm hole 25mm deep and use your jig to
mark your other hole, or measure 60mm and
centre punch the position of the other hole. Now
drill the other hole. Once the two holes are drilled
in the movable jaw, cut 2 × 10mm diameter ×
45mm long steel pieces. Before inserting the pins,
put them in a drill and sand the surfaces smooth,
removing any roughness that would make it
harder for the pins to fit into the holes in the
body. Next, put the steel pins into the holes and
test the fit in the body holes with the movable
jaw. No matter how accurate you have been,
some will probably be tight. Re-drill the holes
from both sides with a 10.5mm bit and they
should now slide in and out easily. If not, drill the
holes that are tighter with a larger drill, increasing
by 0.5mm at a time. If you have been accurate in
your marking out this should not be necessary.
Indicate on one of the surfaces that it will
eventually have cork glued onto it (photo 9).Making the handle
To make the handle you’ll need either 120mm
of^3 ⁄ 8 in BSW, or 10mm metric threaded rod.The handles need to have a groove cut into them:
9 × 4.5mm if you are using the^3 ⁄ 8 in rod and 10 ×
5mm for the 10mm. This can be sawn or routed
out. To cut the groove on the saw it will be safer
for you to hot glue a small piece of timber onto
the back of each piece, which will make it easier
to hold, and therefore, safer to manipulate (photo
10 ). Another method is to masking tape the back
of the pieces and glue the piece of timber to it.
Before you start gluing, mark and masking tape
the threaded piece to indicate where 65mm is.
Place this piece in the groove as shown in photo
11 and mark the end. Cut a timber piece that
will fit into the end and glue it in place as shown.
You’re now ready to glue the two pieces together
with five-minute epoxy resin. Place the glue in
the grooves as well as the edges and cramp up
in a vice. The masking tape prevents squeezed
out glue clogging up the threads.
To prepare the grip on the handle, set your
saw height to 6mm and your fence to make
a cut just inside the outer edge. Make cuts on
all edges and then turn the handle over and make
cuts from the other end. Keep moving the fence
in and make the cuts again until your handle looks
like the one shown in photo 13.
To round over the end, hold the handle in a drill
and rotate it against a rotating sanding machine.
The finished handle should look like that shown
in photo 14.Making & fitting the handle support
Mark out the handle support on both sides
as shown in Fig.6. On one side you need to drill
a 18mm hole, 10mm deep. From the other side,
drill a hole to suit the thread tapping size of the
handle: 8mm for the^38 ⁄in BSW, and 9mm for the
10mm metric (photo 15).10 Piece of timber glued onto handle piece for safety
when cutting the groove9 Movable jaw completed with marking shown
for cork, and the steel rods inserted8 Marking out and 10mm holes drilled for metal rods
7 Using the jig with a tri-square to mark
positions for the holes6 10mm holes drilled and other holes marked
for drilling
5 Jig for marking out the hole position