http://www.getwoodworking.com October 2019 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 53
Tap a thread to suit your handle thread through
the hole. Place some masking tape onto the end
of the thread and file the surplus off. The reason
for this is that we are going to epoxy resin the nut
into the hole, and the tape stops the glue adhering
to the handle end. Screw the handle through the
hole and place a nut on the end. Carefully unscrew
the handle until it sits on the bottom of the 18mm
hole (photo 16). Mix up some five-minute epoxy
resin and fill up the hole, forcing the glue around
the nut with a thin stick (photo 17). You can then
leave it to set for about 30 minutes, when you’re
ready to unscrew the handle. It will come out
leaving the masking tape stuck to the resin. After
three or four hours, use the drill size you used
before you tapped the hole to drill from the non-
resin side, then re-tap the hole. Lastly, sand the
surplus resin off the side of the handle support.13 Handle after cutting grip, showing sawn grips
18 Showing the use of the sash cramp – screw in
the adjustable jaw15 Handle support showing 18 × 10mm deep
hole to take the nut12 Handle before sanding the end round17 Here the nut has been glued in place
Fig.6 Marking out for handle support
11 Pieces all prepared for the five-minute epoxy resin16 Nut held in place ready for epoxy resin to hold
it permanently in place – note the masking tape
to facilitate removal of the handle14 Finished handle after rounding ends on a sanding machine19 Marking out the bevels on the adjustable jawMark an arc on the top corners and sand them
round. I use a small washer for this job (Fig.6).
If you intend on rounding over all corners rather
than keeping them square, the handle support
needs to be glued and screwed into position
now. The rounding of corners makes for a more
pleasing appearance.
Drill screw holes, glue, clamp and screw the
handle support in place as shown in photo 18.