358
The publisher would like to thank the following for their work on this book:
Contributors: Ronald Bonewitz, Iain Zaczek, Alison Sturgeon, Alexandra Black. UK consultant: Andrew Fellows. Indexer:
Margaret McCormack. Editorial assistance: Fergus Day, Richard Gilbert, Georgina Palffy, Helen Ridge, Anna Limerick,
Kate Taylor, Sam Atkinson, Kathryn Hennessy. Design assistance: Phil Gamble, Saffron Stocker, Phil Fitzgerald, Steve
Crozier, Tom Morse, Ray Bryant, Paul Reid at cobalt id, Vanessa Hamilton. DTP Designers: Syed Mohammad Farhan,
Vijay Kandwal, Ashok Kumar, Mohammad Rizwan. Additional photography: Gary Ombler, Richard Leeney.Dorling Kindersley would especially like to thank the following for their assistance:
Robert Acker Holt, Samantha Lloyd, and all at Holts Gems for kindly allowing us to photograph their collection;
The Al Thani Collection; Laura Behaegel and Harriet Mathias at Cartier; Judy Colbert at the GIA (Gemological
Institute of America); Benjamin Macklowe and Antonio Virardi at the Macklowe Gallery; Sonya Newell-Smith at
the Tadema Gallery; Kealy Gordon and Ellen Nanney at the Smithsonian Institution; Megan Taylor at Luped for
picture research assistance.The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission to reproduce their
photographs:(Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top)Smithsonian Institution, Washington, DC: Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum 215cr, 215bl, National
Museum of Natural History / Chip Clark 5tr, 6ftl, 27 (C), 46, 54tr, 54br, 56tl, 70, 71bc, 72fbr, 76fcr, 77tl, 113tl, 116c,
132, 152tl, 152cr, 159br, 161tr, 161fcr, 169bl, 170tl, 171br, 206bl, 209br, 216fcl, 233cr, 240fbr, 243cl, 259bl,
285bl, 332c, 332crb, 333crb, National Museum of Natural History / Ken Larsen 95bl, 98fcr, 105bl, 117bc, 168cl,
168cr, 168br, 168fcr, 197br, 340br, 346crb, National Museum of Natural History / Paula Crevoshay 56cr, 56bc, 73c,
105br, National Museum of Natural History / Sena Dyber 138l, 345clb, Sherris Cottier Shank 245cra2 Courtesy of Sotheby’s Picture Library, London: Private Collection. 4 Fellows Auctioneers. Sothebys Inc. 5
akg-images: (tl). Fellows Auctioneers. Getty Images: Peter Macdiarmid (ftl). 6 Bridgeman Images: De Agostini
Picture Library / E. Lessing (tl). © Cartier. 7 The Al-Thani Collection: Servette Overseas Ltd 2012, all rights
reserved. Photographs taken
by Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd (tr). Alamy Stock Photo:Ian Dagnall (tl); Adam Eastland Art + Architecture
(ftr). Dorling Kindersley: Holts (ftl). 9 © Cartier. 11 Dorling Kindersley: Holts. 12 Dorling Kindersley: Natural
History Museum, London (clb). 13 Dorling Kindersley: Tim Parmenter / Natural History Museum, London (cr). 14
Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (clb). 15 Dorling Kindersley: Holts (cl, ca, fbl, bc/A, fbr,
br); Ruth Jenkinson (bl). Science Photo Library: Dirk Wiersma (bc/B). 16 Dorling Kindersley: Natural History
Museum, London (clb, bc); Holts (cl, bl, br). Science Photo Library. 16-17 Dorling Kindersley:Holts (c, b). 17
Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (clb, br); Oxford University Museum of Natural History (cr). 19
Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (cra). 20 Alamy Stock Photo: Wildlife GmbH (cl). Dorling
Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (bl, fcr, fbr); Holts (c, br). Gemological Institute of America
Reprinted by Permission: Jian Xin (Jae) Liao (fcrb); Robert Weldon / courtesy Dr. E. J. Gübelin Collection
(fbl). Science Photo Library: Alfred Pasieka (cr). 21 Alamy Stock Photo: Martin Baumgaertner (I). Dorling
Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (G, J, M, N, P); Holts (A, F, L, O, S Q); Richard Leeney (B); Richard
Leeney (D); Richard Leeney (H); Richard Leeney (R). Gemological Institute of America Reprinted by
Permission: Jian Xin (Jae) Liao (K). Science Photo Library: Joel Arem (E); Dorling Kindersley / UIG (C). 22 Dorling
Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (C); Holts (A, B, D, E, F, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q); Ruth Jenkinson
(S). Science Photo Library: Vaughan Fleming (R). 23 Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (tr, fbl,
bc); Holts (cla, cl, c, cr). Science Photo Library:Paul Biddle (fcl). 25 Getty Images: samvaltenbergs (tr). 26 Alamy
Stock Photo: Alan Curtis (c). Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (cr, bc); Holts (br). 27 123RF.
com: Ingemar Magnusson (H). Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (I); Holts (A, D, E, F,
G, J, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, U, W, X, Y, Z, ZA); Natural History Museum, London / Tim Parmenter (K); Richard Leeney
(V). Gemological Institute of America Reprinted by Permission: Robert Weldon / courtesy Minerales y Metales
del Oriente, Bolivia, SA (T). 29 Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (tr); Holts (cra, crb, tc, ca, cb,
bc). Fellows Auctioneers. 30 Dorling Kindersley: Holts (c, cra, bl, br). 31 Gemological Institute of America
Reprinted by Permission: Robert Weldon (br, bl, c, cl, tr); Robert Weldon (bc); Robert Weldon (cr). 32 Bridgeman
Images: Birmingham Museums and Art Gallery (bc); Indianapolis Museum of Art, USA / Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Eli Lilly
(cl).The Art Archive: Ashmolean Museum (fcla); Musee du Louvre Paris / Kharbine-Tapabor (fcl); Egyptian Museum
Cairo / Araldo De Luca (cr). 33 Bridgeman Images: Christie’s Images (ftr); Museo Nazionale del Bargello, Florence,
Italy (ftl); State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia (fbl); Weltliche und Geistliche Schatzkammer, Vienna,
Austria (cl); De Agostini Picture Library (bl); Fitzwilliam Museum, University of Cambridge, UK (tl); Fitzwilliam Museum,
University of Cambridge, UK (tr). Van Cleef & Arpels. 36 Verdura. 37 akg-images: Bildarchiv Steffens (bl). ©
Cartier: (br).Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (tl). Getty Images: Araldo de Luca / Corbis
(bc). 38 Bridgeman Images: De Agostini Picture Library / E. Lessing (bl). The Trustees of the British Museum.
© Cartier. Corbis: David Lees (ftr). 39 The Trustees of the British Museum: (bl, bl). Bulgari: (fbr). © Cartier.
Dorling Kindersley: The Trustees of the British Museum (bl). Fellows Auctioneers. Antonio Virardi of
Macklowe Gallery, New York. 39 The Trustees of the British Museum: (bl, bl). Bulgari: (fbr). © Cartier.
Dorling Kindersley: The Trustees of the British Museum (bl). Fellows Auctioneers. Antonio Virardi ofAcknowledgments
Acknowledgments
358
Macklowe Gallery, New York. 40 akg-images: Pictures From History. 41 akg-images: Nimatallah
(tl). Bridgeman Images: De Agostini Picture Library / Chantilly, Château, Musée Condé (Picture Gallery And Art
Museum) (cr); French School, (14th century) / Bibliotheque Municipale, Castres, France (bl). Muenze Oesterreich
AG: (cl). 42 1stdibs, Inc:(tl); Macklowe Gallery / Anotonio Virardi (fbr). Alamy Stock Photo: David J. Green -
technology (bl). Dorling Kindersley: Colin Keates / Natural History Museum, London (fcl); Tim Parmenter / Natural
History Museum, London (cl). Fellows Auctioneers. 43 1stdibs, Inc. Bonhams Auctioneers, London.
Rijksmuseum Amsterdam: (tc). Sothebys Inc. 44 Alamy Stock Photo: philipus (bl). Dorling Kindersley: Holts
(fcr); Natural History Museum, London (tl); Natural History Museum, London (fcl); Natural History Museum, London
(cr). Getty Images: DEA / R.Appiani (cl). 45 1stdibs, Inc. © Cartier. The Goldsmiths’ Company: Leo De
Vroomen (tc). Antonio Virardi of Macklowe Gallery, New York. 47 Bridgeman Images: (br); Christie’s Images
(tl). Corbis: Leemage (cb). 48 Dorling Kindersley: Canterbury City Council, Museums and Galleries (br); Ruth
Jenkinson (c); University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (cr). 49 Dorling
Kindersley: Newcastle Great Northern Museum, Hancock (fcr); The Trustees of the British Museum (tl, cl); University
of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (cr); University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology
and Anthropology (bl). Dreamstime.com: Wojpra (br). 50 Photo Scala, Florence: Marie Mauzy. 51 akg-
images: Erich Lessing (cl). Getty Images: Universal Images Group (tl). Library of Congress, Washington,
D.C.: (cr). The Art Archive: Musée du Louvre Paris / Gianni Dagli Orti (bl). 52 Graff Diamonds. 53 Bridgeman
Images: Christie’s Images (br). © Cartier. The Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth
II: 2016 (bc). Photo Scala, Florence: bpk, Bildagentur fuer Kunst, Kultur und Geschichte, Berlin (bl). 54 Dorling
Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (tl, cl, bl); Holts (l, ftr, fcr). 55 Dorling Kindersley: Holts (t, fcl, fbl, fcr,
br). Science Photo Library: Vaughan Fleming (cl). 56 Bridgeman Images: Christie’s Images (bl). Fellows
Auctioneers: (tc, tr). 57 Bridgeman Images: Private Collection / Photo © Christie’s Images (br). © Cartier.
Dorling Kindersley: Holts (fcl). Fellows Auctioneers. Getty Images: Peter Macdiarmid (bc). Tadema
Gallery: (bl). Van Cleef & Arpels: (cr). 58 The Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. 59
Alamy Stock Photo: V&A Images (cl). Bibliothèque nationale de France, Paris: (cr). The Royal Collection
Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II: 2016 (tl, bl). 60-61 The Trustees of the British Museum. 61
Bridgeman Images: Egyptian National Museum, Cairo, Egypt (br). 62 Corbis: Smithsonian Institution. 63
Corbis: Smithsonian Institution (tl); Leemage (cl). Library of Congress, Washington, D.C.: (bc). Museum
National d’Histoire Naturelle: François Farges (cr). 65 Dorling Kindersley: Holts. 66 Dorling Kindersley: Ruth
Jenkinson / Holts (cl, br). 67 Dorling Kindersley: Tim Parmenter / Natural History Museum, London (bc). 68 The
Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II: 2016. 69 Bridgeman Images: Her Majesty Queen
Elizabeth II, 2016 (bc); Chetham’s Library, Manchester, UK (tl); Walker, Robert (1607-60) / Leeds Museums and
Galleries (Leeds Art Gallery) U.K. (cr). 71 Bridgeman Images: Kremlin Museums, Moscow, Russia (bl). © Cartier.
72 Alamy Stock Photo: Rhea Eason (cl); ZUMA Press, Inc (bl); Greg C Grace (ftr). Dorling Kindersley: Natural
History Museum, London (ftl, c, cr); Holts (tl, tr). Science Photo Library: Joel Arem (br). 73 Dorling
Kindersley: Holts (br, fbr); Judith Miller / Sloane’s (fbl). Fellows Auctioneers. 74 Getty Images: STF. 75 Dulong
Fine Jewellery: Sara Lindbaek (tl, bl). Getty Images: Print Collector (c). Rex by Shutterstock: Tim Rooke (cr). 76
Dorling Kindersley: Holts (l, cl, cr).Antonio Virardi of Macklowe Gallery, New York. 77 © Cartier. Dorling
Kindersley: Holts (bc); Tim Parmenter / Natural History Museum, London (br). Fellows Auctioneers.. Antonio
Virardi of Macklowe Gallery, New York. 78 Alamy Stock Photo: V&A Images. 79 Alamy Stock Photo:
Dinodia Photos (cr). The Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II: 2016 (tl, cl). 80 Dorling
Kindersley: Colin Keates / Natural History Museum, London (cr); Tim Parmenter / Natural History Museum, London
(tl, c); Holts (bl). The Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II: 2016 (br). 81 1stdibs, Inc. ©
Cartier. Dorling Kindersley: Holts (tl, bc); Tim Parmenter / Natural History Museum, London (fcl). Gemological
Institute of America Reprinted by Permission: Robert Weldon / Ring courtesy of a Private Collector and Mona
Lee Nesseth, Custom Estate Jewels (tc). 82 Alamy Stock Photo: Granger, NYC. 83 Bridgeman Images: Tretyakov
Gallery, Moscow, Russia (bl); Kremlin Museums, Moscow, Russia (c). Getty Images: Leemage (tl); Mondadori
Portfolio (cr). 84 Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (c, fbl, cl); Holts (cr, bc, br). 85 1stdibs, Inc.
© Cartier. Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (c, bl). Gemological Institute of America
Reprinted by Permission. Tadema Gallery. 86 Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (br); Ruth
Jenkinson (bc). 87 Bonhams Auctioneers, London: (cr). Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London
(fcl, bc). Gemological Institute of America Reprinted by Permission. 88 Alamy Stock Photo: Annie Eagle (bl);
Universal Images Group North America LLC / DeAgostini (tl). Dorling Kindersley: Tim Parmenter / Natural History
Museum, London (bc, br). 89 Dorling Kindersley: Oxford University Museum of Natural History (br). Getty
Images: Matteo Chinellato - Chinellato Photo (tl, cr). 90 © Cartier. 91 Bridgeman Images: Archives Charmet
(cr); Christie’s Images (cla, bc). © Cartier. Getty Images: Universal History Archicve / UIG (fcra). 92 The Al-Thani
Collection: Servette Overseas Ltd 2012, all rights reserved. Photographs taken by Prudence Cuming Associates
Ltd (tl, cra, bl, clb). Van Cleef & Arpels. 92-93 The Al-Thani Collection: Servette Overseas Ltd 2012, all rights
reserved. Photographs taken by Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd (b). 93 The Al-Thani Collection: Servette
Overseas Ltd 2012, all rights reserved. Photographs taken by Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd (c, t). 94 Alamy
Stock Photo: Eddie Gerald (bl). Bonhams Auctioneers, London: (fcr, br). Corbis. Dorling Kindersley: Holts
(fcl, cl). 96 Dorling Kindersley: Holts (br). 97 Dorling Kindersley: Colin Keates / Natural History Museum, London
(cl); Tim Parmenter / Natural History Museum, London (bc). 98 Alamy Stock Photo: imageBROKER (bl). Corbis.
Dorling Kindersley: Natural History Museum, London (tl). 99 Alamy Stock Photo: Goran Bogicevic (bl). Dorling
Kindersley: Oxford University Museum of Natural History (cl); Tim Parmenter / Natural History Museum, London
(fbl). Dreamstime.com: (fbr). 100 Bonhams Auctioneers, London. Dorling Kindersley: Ruth Jenkinson (cl,352-360_Index_Ack.indd 358 13/06/2016 10:41