TOWEAR/TOBUY/TODO
F
Uncovering the
Utilitarian Trend
It’sabouttimeweinvestigatedour
enduringloveforoversizedpatch
pockets,camoprintandmilitarygreen.
Thereisperhapsno
greaterpost-purchase
discoverythanfinding
outyourgarmenthas
pockets.Surprising
asthismaysound,
practicalityisactually
exciting.Andwith
utilitarian-inspired
looksstormingthe
F/W’19runways,there
isnobettertimetogo
backtotheiroriginsto
findoutwhy.
Practicalityhas
alwaysbeenattheheart
ofutilitarianfashion.
BackintheeraofWorld
WarIIBritain,ina
bidtoreducewastage,
clothingmanufacturers
wereobligedtoproduce
certainquotasusing
onlyutilitycloth–which
werethenlabelledwith
thedistinctiveCC41
logo–beforetheycould
useothertextilesto
makeclothes.
Thislimitation
wasfertilegroundfor
creativebrilliance.
Thedesignrestrictions
andausterityledtoa
Farrah
Fawcett
ina fitted
jumpsuit
andutility
beltfora
Charlie’s
Angels
action
sequence.
focusonpracticalstyle
- cinchingthewaistfor
anarrowersilhouette
oraccentuatingthehips
withpatchpockets.The
increasedparticipation
ofwomeninmilitary
servicealsopavedthe
wayfortheseuniform
elementstoenter
themodernfashion
vernacular.
Utilitarianism
today,though,is
headingfornew
territory.Itismore
experimentaland
evocative–think
Sacai’sabstract
layeringofdownjackets
overtrenchcoats,
Prada’sextremely
oversizedpatch
pockets,andMiu
Miu’smedleyoffabrics
andgreenhuesonits
capeandinartistic
camouflageprint.
Ofcourse,we’re
nowseeinglessutility
andmorefashion.But
thespiritofmakinga
statementremainsthe
same.–VW
ChitoseAbe
ofSacai
remixes
utilitarianism
bycombining
elementsand
forms– like
layeringa
fitteddown
jacketon
topofan
oversized
trenchcoat.
Sacai
Prada
MiuMiu
32 HERWORLDSEPT 2019