Wine Enthusiast – October 2019

WINEMAG.COM | 149

90

Yalumba 2017 Samuel’s Collection Shiraz

(Barossa). This is a well-balanced and

drinkable yet food friendly example of Barossa’s

most famous wine style. It oozes ripe plums, lico-

rice, dried green herbs, dried florals, warm earth

and graphite nuances with a lick of spicy oak. The

tannins are fine and chalky textured, and a line of

acidity lifts the plump fruit, herbs and spice into

brightness. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P.

abv: 14.5% Price: $20

89

Hope Estate 2017 Basalt Block Shiraz (Hunter

Valley). From the Hunter Valley in New

South Wales, this wine shows a lot of regional char-

acter. It’s a little soapy but is dominated by heady

fruit aromas like plums, blueberries and cherries.

Rounding them out are white pepper and dried

herbs and flowers. The palate bursts with juicy,

plump fruit and savory powdery tannins that grip

gently. A long herb-flecked finish makes another sip

an easy endeavor. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —C.P.

abv: 13% Price: $14

89

Kay Brothers 2016 Basket Pressed Amery

Vineyard Shiraz (McLaren Vale). From this

historic winery’s home block of vines, this Shiraz

is a rich, winter warmer that’s still finding its way.

It opens with aromas of plump blueberries, plums,

chocolate flakes, dried green spices and black pep-

per, with flecks of licorice and graphite in the back-

ground. There’s some heat from the alcohol on the

palate and the oak is fairly prominent. Spicy, drying

tannins back more plush plummy fruit. This should

cellar well, but it’s a little chunky at the moment.

Drink 2020–2029. Quintessential Wines. —C.P.

abv: 14% Price: $40

89

Lambert 2016 The Family Tree Shiraz

(Barossa Valley). A muscular, rich wine,

this opens with heady, almost raisiny red-berry

fruit, with licorice, earthy herbs and spices, touches

of floral notes and vanillin oak. Tannins are chewy

and drying, showing a good lick of oak along with the

ripe fruit. There’s a likability about the fruit profile,

though, that suggests that time in bottle might offer

lots of interest and drinkability in f uture. Drink

2023–2034. AUSA Pacific. —C.P.

abv: 15% Price: $75

89

Milton Park 2017 Shiraz (South Australia).

Ripe brambly berry fruit, florals and soft

peppery spice on this wine are buoyed by crisp

acidity and a tight line of tannins. A herbal tonic

note appears on the finish. It’s a straightforward but

relatively bright-fruited Shiraz. Kysela Père et Fils.

Best Buy. —C.P.

abv: 14% Price: $13

89

Ringland 2016 Shiraz (Barossa). Barossa

master Chris Ringland knows how to make

powerful, rich Shiraz. But in this expression he

turns the volume down just a notch, with a wine

that is still big but approachable. The nose is a

combo of blueberry, plum and raspberry fruit with

soft chocolate and earthy spice notes. On the pal-

ate, silky fruit is gripped by granular tannins and

buoyed by a good lick of acidity. The finish is long

and spicy. Drink this with food now through 2027.

Saranty Imports. —C.P.

abv: 15% Price: $25

LOIRE VALLEY

WHITE WINES

SANCERRE

94

Henri Bourgeois 2016 Jadis (Sancerre). This

top wine in the Bourgeois range is made for

aging. Its perfumed apple and citrus fruit and con-

centrated texture have now blended well together to

give a balanced, mature wine. Impressive in its den-

sity and richness, it is ready to drink now. Cham-

bers & Chambers. —R.V.

abv: 13% Price: $60

94

Henri Bourgeois 2016 Le Cotelin (Sancerre).

Produced on the Bourgeois family vineyards

at Maimbray, this wine was partially fermented in

wood. The resulting wine moves easily between

freshness and spice, with apple and pink-grapefruit

flavors balanced by the mineral, textured edge. The

wine is only just ready to drink and will be better

from 2020. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V.

abv: 13% Price: $65

94

Joseph Mellot 2016 Cuvée Pierre Etienne

(Sancerre). Made in honor of the man who

founded the Mellot dynasty in 1513, this is a rich

wine. Light oak-barrel flavors mingle with a strong

mineral texture that gives the wine a tight edge.

Now mature, the fruit is well integrated with the

structure of the wine. It is ready to drink. Romano

Brands. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

abv: 14% Price: $60

93

Domaine Fouassier 2017 Le Clos de Bannon

(Sancerre). Biodynamically grown grapes

from a small walled vineyard produce this beauti-

fully balanced wine. Its clean lines and crisp acid-

ity contrasting with hints of tropical fruit are all

part of a wine that has a strong future. The wine’s

structure and flinty texture should soften over the

years. Drink from 2021. Opici Wines. Cellar Selec-

tion. —R.V.

abv: 13% Price: $50

93

Gitton Père et Fils 2017 Galinot Silex

(Sancerre). This wine is powerful in its

intensity and ripe fruitiness. Fermented in large

casks and then aged in wood, it offers toastiness

as well as pineapple and apricot flavors. A tang of

acidity and lemon zest marks the finish. Drink from

2020. Wine Source International. —R.V.
      abv: 12.5% Price: $49

93

Joseph Mellot 2016 L’Original (Sancerre). A

wine made to celebrate 500 years of the

Mellot family in Sancerre, this will likely mature

further. Smoothly rich, the wine offers great spici-

ness as well as ripe white and citrus fruits. Now

after three years, the wine is softening and showing