THE BEER-WRITER
I believe that the beer market in Italy has never changed so much and
so quickly as in the last twenty years. While on the one hand the over-
abundance of the offer is exciting, on the other hand, in my opinion,
it signals a critical aspect of the sector that appears to be increasingly
complex and chaotic, a sector where the protagonists seem more tak-
en by anxiety to pursue the new trends that appear between the most
passionate consumers rather than working on brand identity, on extended communi-
cation (not only in the sector), on investments in marketing and advertising. It seems
to me that in the face of an increase in numbers and, on average, also in quality, the
way of operating the craft has remained the same. Of course, the acquisitions of the
multinationals have created havoc but I am convinced that the greatest difficulties for
Italian micro-companies come from the competition of other micro-Europeans and
Americans who have entered our market. Often “micro” that have an appeal, even
economic, and a stronger identity that cannot be summed up only in the non-pas-
teurization or in the greater character of a craft beer compared to an industrial lager.- Maurizio Maestrelli, columnist and taster
THE ARTISANAL
I believe that the beer market in Italy has never changed so much and
so quickly as in the last twenty years. While on the one hand the over-
abundance of the offer is exciting, on the other hand, in my opinion,
it signals a critical aspect of the sector that appears to be increasingly
complex and chaotic, a sector where the protagonists seem more taken
by anxiety to pursue the new trends that appear between the most pas-
sionate consumers rather than working on brand identity, on extended communica-
tion (not only in the sector), on investments in marketing and advertising. It seems to
me that in the face of an increase in numbers and, on average, also in quality, the way
of operating the craft has remained the same. Of course, the acquisitions of the multi-
nationals have created havoc but I am convinced that the greatest difficulties for Italian
micro-companies come from the competition of other micro-Europeans and Ameri-
cans who have entered our market. Often “micro” that have an appeal, even economic,
and a stronger identity that cannot be summed up only in the non-pasteurization or in
the greater character of a craft beer compared to an industrial lager- Vittorio Ferraris, Director of Unionbirrai
THE PUBLICAN
The moment is delicate. There is a decline in general interest, due to
a certain extreme that involves taste, prices, aggressive narketing and
unfortunately, often, even lack of professionalism in the supply chain:
from the brewer, to the distributor, to the publican. It’s essential for ev-
ery actor in this industry to confront others, to travel, to gather informa-
tion. This often doesn’t happen and the end customer lacks the supporting columns
on which to build and expand a possible initial interest. Craft beer is totally different
from the industrial one: it must be talked about and supported, which happens less
and less as people who are not attentive to the product enter the market, attracted
only by the growing market. There is a manic search for the new names to offer, when
instead today it’s hard to find a new brewery that makes the difference in the midst of
a sea of copies, and breweries without personalities that follow only the latest market
trends. The movement must compact, grow in personality and marketing: only in this
way can it survive and bring the best elements to a lasting success.- Manuele Colonna, owner of Ma che siete venuti a fa’ in Rome
THE UNIVERSE OF CRAFT BEERin the past in its 112 years of history. The real
problem is instead the reason why it’s so diffi-
cult to do business in Italy». But something,
according to Manuele Colonna, is chang-
ing: «Fortunately, be it for the self-destructive
abilities of our sector – and I’m referring above
all to the distortion of beer, produced more and
more often with strange ingredients when not
downright crazy, pushed to the extreme, full
of artificial ingredients – or for the aforemen-
tioned revolt and for the protection law on craft
beers pushed by Unionbirrai, these operations
have not proved so successful. Thus acquisitions
are gradually decreasing all over the world».
This opinion is also shared by Agostino
Arioli, brewer of the Birrificio Italiano, pre-
cursor of the Italian craft sector: «The first
acquisitions triggered a wave of purchases,
in which the macro-players of the beer world
launched a wild shopping spree in the ranks of
the craft universe; but this has already ended.
I believe that the multinational giants that
have bought artisan realities, perhaps to