DAMAN^AUGUST/SEPTEMBER2019163Clockwise from top left Homage to Japan
fashion heritage seen in the collection;
The less structure silhoutte in monochrome
look; The VLTN Belt Bag Opposite page
Tailored coats in relaxed trouserson the acceptance of transience and
imperfection. Whereas Western culture
is about symmetry, perfection, static
beauty, wabi-sabi is more close to the
idea of harmony and inner grace.
Between recreating classic shapes
of Maison Valentino in both men’s
and womenswear departments in a
fresh way, each look pays homage to
Japan’s fashion heritage. This concept
later on translated into asymmetrical
silhouettes, ruffles and reimagined
floral prints crushed into read and
black silk dye.
The Collection
The 90-look show opened up with
laces, capes and dramatic florals,
something that ingrained in its DNA.
But halfway in, the camouflage and
rockstud world of Valentino enters. As
a subtle adaptation of modern Japanese
fashion, Valentino introduced its classic
layered frills in iterations of indigo
denim and graphic prints stamped on
sweatshirts and nylon jackets.
For the men’s collection, Piccioli
showed tailored coats in tech fabrics,
relaxed trousers and boxy jackets. The
brand revealed monochrome looks in
black, red and blue. The tailoring this
time around has a new perspective, less
structured and very soft. Everything
moves in the right direction. The
camouflage, one of Valentino’s codes
item for men looked fluid on a
cashmere sweater and uneven hem.
This is where the wabi-sabi and ma^
concepts comes in.
The collection had some playfulness
and ease to it, at times the proportions
of the pieces were slightly altered
or Piccioli added details that made
them look imperfect. Volumes are
purified, ruffles are crushed and pleats
are misaligned. Black and read are
splashed onto prints with the V logo
marks allover. All the men’s looks were
completed with a simple black sneaker
with white sole.
Bags were definitely seen in the
collection, from totes, sling backs, belt
bag and backpack. The highlight of
the bag collections is none other than
the VLTN Belt Bag, available in black,
white, blue, navy and red color. Made
from luxurious calfskin, the versatile
belt bag is also finished with Palladium
stud detailing. As the show ended
a storm of red rose petals fluttered
from the ceiling, closing the stunning
presentation from Pierpaolo Piccioli.