DAMAN^AUGUST/SEPTEMBER2019176
SPECIAL REPORTPOP
LIFE
AFTER HIS SUCCESSFUL DEBUT COLLECTION FOR LOUIS VUITTON
LAST SEASON, VIRGIL ABLOH PRESENTED AN IMPRESSIVE FALL/WINTER
COLLECTION PROVING THAT HE HAS FOUND FIRM FOOTING AT THE
FRENCH FASHION HOUSE. PETER ZEWET REPORTS FROM THE PRESS
PRESENTATION IN TOKYOF
or fall/winter 2019, artistic director of
Louis Vuitton’s men’s wear collection,
Virgil Abloh, took inspiration from the
iconic figure of Michael Jackson. Aside from
his controversial private life, the late Michael
Jackson provided a wealth of creative ideas
through his music and fashion styles. A powerful
advocate for inclusivity, Jackson was never bound
to a particular notion of race, gender or sexuality.
On a more practical note, Jackson’s iconic fashion
styles highlighted his love for royal military
garments, wide-brim fedoras, sleek loafers
and loads of sparkle, while his personality that
reflected a Peter Pan naiveté added another layer
of sartorial stimulus.
As inspiration for the collection, this Jackson
leitmotif could have resulted in costumey looks
or a parodic homage to the King of Pop. But
under Abloh’s deft hands, it was a theatrical
template within which he worked wonders.
Adopting the right elements, Abloh presented
a cohesive collection that showcased his ability
to mix high-fashion aesthetic with an elevated
streetweat sensibility that he is famous for.
In tune with the fall/winter season, outer wear
and suits dominates the collection, with a play of
layering and loose, baggy silhouettes. Showcasing
relaxed tailoring, the suits, reminiscent of the
zoot suits, refreshes an early-eighties references.
The color palette, presented in monochromatic
ensembles, featured various shades of grays,
browns, blacks and whites, punctuated with bold
purples and reds which are colors most associated
with Jackson. The motifs and prints in the
collection are exceptional such as the cartoonish
illustrations that were seen on pajamas and the
houndstooth motif that, on closer inspection,
is made up of miniaturized maps of Africa.
Another standout print is the multi-national
flags print inspired by “We Are The World.”
Marking the nationalities of the models and
people in his studio team (from Great Britain
to Ghana; Scotland to South Korea), the