43 louisianacookin.comQ: Which Louisiana ingredients do you enjoy the
most? Is there a season you really look forward to?
Summer is great—tomatoes, corn, okra, peas, watermelon.
It’s funny because in summer we get all this stuff and then
everybody leaves [for vacation]. But something I love
about working in New Orleans is the Gulf and the amount
of seafood that we get sustainably and really fresh. It blows
my mind. I’ve learned more about seafood and varieties of
fi sh than I ever thought I would.Q: Historically, this industry has been male-
dominated. What’s been your experience?
My story is pretty typical, but I have been lucky to
work with men in the industry who have seen my
value and listened when I needed them to and who
were open to being checked of dominant, aggressive,
or discriminatory behaviors they may or may not have
been aware of. It’s important to me to work with people
who can evolve and break away from conditioned
behaviors and be accountable for them.Q: What inspires you most as a chef?
Generally, cooks in Louisiana and the United States
don’t make a living wage, and yet they still do it. I’m
inspired by the people I work with across the restaurant
community, who are still willing to do this job even
when they don’t make enough. I’m inspired by this
deranged desire to be a cook or a chef, by people who
are inclined to this life. My current circumstances are
great. Everyone is paid fairly, and tips are shared. In my
opinion, as things exist currently, that’s the only way to
do it, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.martha wiggins
The Elysian BarChefMarthaWiggins came into her own while
headingupthekitchen at Sylvain in NewOrleans’FrenchQuarter. While she was the gastropub’s
executivechef,shewasa semifi nalist for the James
BeardFoundation’s2017 Rising Star Award and 2018
BestChefSouth.Now,she is in the kitchen with
2013 CheftoWatchAlex Harrell at the Elysian Bar, a
charmingFrench-Southern bistro inside Hotel Peter &
PaulintheMarigny.Martha is inspired by the variety
offreshlocalseafoodand seasonal produce, which she
highlightsinherflavor-forward dishes.
Q:Howdidyourlovefor the culinary arts begin?
I gothookedontheadrenaline rush of working in a
busyplace.The fast-paced environment really suits
mypersonality.I alwaysthought of myself as a good
soldier,sotheideathatI had any talent in this business
didn’tcomefora longtime. But I’ve always known
theworksuitsme.ThenI realized I’m not just good at
replicatingwhatanother chef does, I’m good at creating
myownfood.
Q:Howdidyouendup in New Orleans?
I hadbeentoNewOrleans a couple of times when I
wasyounger,buteventhen, I knew I would live here
someday.I lovetheenergy and soul of this place.
Somethingaboutit connected with me. I moved here
fromMassachusettsin2010. A friend of mine in
Washingtonstatetoldme she would be driving to New
Orleansandneededa travel buddy. So, I fl ew out to
Washingtonandthendrove here with her, and I’ve been
hereeversince.I loveit,and I never want to leave.
WHERE SHE COOKS
The Elysian Bar
2317 Burgundy St.
New Orleans
504.356.67692019
JARS OF PICKLE JUICE WITH NO PICKLES BECAUSE
I ATE ALL THE PICKLES, SO I DRINK
THE JUICE.THE MOST EMBARRASSING THING IN YOUR HOME REFRIGERATOR: