Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist – September 2019

Jewelry Project/Technique SAWING FOR 3D EFFECTS

FORM THE BEZEL

A couple pointers to get started:

bending and forming thick metal

stock requires using suffi cient

controlled force with well-stabilized

tools to move the material with con-

fi dence and authority. It is essential

to have good work habits and

proper posture for the best results

with the least amount of wear and

tear on hands and fi ngers. Bracing

hands, tools, and materials securely

on or against the bench pin when

forming with pliers enables stability

of the tool and promotes using the

pliers with enhanced precision and

control.

Note: Bending and forming the

thick stock work hardens the

metal. It may require annealing

to soften it enough to completely

close the seam for soldering. If

the metal is excessively work

hardened from forming, the shape

may relax and the seam may open

slightly as it reaches annealing

temperature when it is heated to

solder. If this happens, cool the

bezel and bring the ends back

together for a tight fit seam. Set

up again for soldering.

Start with dead soft, fully annealed

metal.

1a

Bend the end of the thick

bezel stock with ring bending

pliers. I have a cushion of leather

over the lower jaw of my pliers to

reduce tool marks. Brace the pliers

against the bench pin.

1b

Bend the other end forming a

curve.

Bend the middle by squeezing the

pliers with controlled movements to

bring the ends closer together.

CLOSE THE BEZEL

There are several methods of

closing the bezel and bringing the

ends together for the solder seam.

Depending on the thickness of the

metal, it may require more than one

of the methods below to bring the

seam tightly closed.

1c

Half round pliers. Grip the

bezel with two pairs of

half round/fl at pliers well braced

against the bench pin (posi-

tioned opposed). Push down

fi rmly on the pin to increase

leverage with the pliers and

bring the ends of the bezel

together.

1d

Mallet. Position the bezel

on edge against a steel

block or on the bench top and tap

the sides of the seam.

1e

Ring holding pliers. Adjust

the curve to bring the ends

together.

1f

Parallel pliers. Use these to

adjust the seam. Keeping

hands and tools braced fi rmly

on the bench pin, in the notch

of the pin, or overhanging

the edge of the pin provides

leverage to adjust and align the

ends.

FORM THE INSERT

Follow the same movements as in

forming the bezel: bend the ends,

then bend the middle to close the

ends and bring the seam together.

1a 1b 1c

1d 1e 1f

22 LAPIDARY JOURNAL JEWELRY ARTIST