1g
Bend the insert using half
round/fl at pliers. For the
fi rst bend, hold the pliers in the
notch of the bench pin and bend
the metal against the pliers, push-
ing it around the tool rather than
bending the metal with the pliers.1h
Close the insert and align
the ends.2
If needed, saw the seam with a
3 /0 saw blade to clean up the
fi t and alignment.
Keep in mind that using a formula
to determine the correct bezel
length means the shape of the
bezel as it is being closed is not
important. Having a well fi tted
seam is more important. The
oval shape of the bezel will be
easily adjusted and corrected after
soldering.SOLDER SETUP
Use a solution of boric acid pow-
der dissolved in denatured alcohol
as a fi re scale preventative barrier
fl ux. Apply paste fl ux to the seams
and solder them with hard solder.2a
Soldering the bezel seam in
front makes it convenient to
place solder on the edges of the
bezel. I tend to use this position the
most to solder this type of project.
It allows me to see the solder fl ow-
ing on the outside of the seam.
After the fi rst placement of solder
starts to melt/fl ow, I fl ip the bezel
over and reposition it with the seam
facing away. I add a second sphere of
solder to the top edge and heat the
seam a second time until the solder
fl ows. In this position I can see the
solder fl ow on the inside of the seam.2b
Work with the bezel seam up
to place solder in the middle
of the bezel, which allows the seam
to heat quickly and evenly. Roundish
things tend to roll, so positioning
the bezel seam up might require
stabilizing with a third hand, locking
tweezers, or a soldering prop of
some sort.2c
Solder the insert, then
quench, clean, and dry the
parts. Remove any excess solder
from the seams with a fi le.ADJUST BEZEL, INSERTS
Minor adjustments to correct
the shape can be made with ring
bending or half round/fl at pliers. I
often use leather or a fabric cushion
between the pliers’ jaws and the
metal to prevent marring.2d
Adjust the bezel shape to
fi t the stone. Using a mallet
and mandrel allow shaping without
making tool marks.
Adjust the insert with a mandrel and
mallet.2
2c
1g
2a
1h
2b
2d
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2019 23