20 may–jun 2020 http://www.climber.co.uk
feature
HARD ROCK
INTRODUCTION
Since it was first published in 1974,
Hard Rock has become a classic in
climbing literature, showcasing the
best of British rock-climbing in a
mixture of essays and stunning
photography. The text features over
50 crags and 69 routes in Scotland,
England and Wales, dividing them
into categories covering the Scottish
Highlands and Islands, the Lake District,
north and south Wales, the Pennines,
the Peak District and southwest
England. This extensive coverage
enables the text, which adds 13 new
routes to the original selection, to
retain its rightful place on the pedestal
at the top of climbing literature.
The new edition of Hard Rock contains
Ken Wilson’s original brief history of hard
rock-climbing in Britain, as well as a new
Preface and Postscript by Ian Parnell. As
in the original, the text continues to focus
on the route rather than the climber,
ensuring that despite changes, tradition-
ally protected climbing continues in its
popularity. With routes within reach of
most climbers, tackling large mountain
walls, gritstone outcrops and epic sea
cliff adventures, Hard Rock remains a
staple for the climbing community.
Ensuring the text is as relevant as when
it was first published, Parnell’s new edition
presents fresh essays from climbers such
as Emma Alsford, Stephen Reid, Kevin
Howett and Eleanor Fuller alongside the
earlier essays by more established
names. Although occasionally demon-
strating wit which reflects attitudes that
shouldn’t be seen as acceptable today,
the original essays have been allowed to
stand uncensored in the hope that they
won’t diminish the reader’s enjoyment of
the book. The new book loses the routes
The Scoop on Strone Ulladale, Kilnsey
Main Overhang, North Crag Eliminate
at Castle Rock and Deer Bield Buttress.With a new glossy version edited by Ian Parnell and
out now, Climber looks at the revamp of this ground-
breaking iconic book originally by Ken Wilson and talks
to the people involved. This is followed by an extract
of one of the new pieces commissioned for the book.
Elder Crack (E2 5b) at
Curbar Edge in the Peak
District. After the steep
starting crack, perplexing
moves are required to gain
the upper offwidth. Sophie
Whyte on these moves.
Photo: Ian Parnell