http://www.climber.co.uk may–jun 2020 21
However, it now features the additional
collection of routes:
Angel Face, Beinn Eighe
Vulcan Wall, Skye
Prophecy of Drowning, Pabbay
Totalitarian, Raven Crag
Nimrod, Dow Crag
Plane Sailing, Stackpole Head
Heart of Darkness/New Morning,
Mowing Word
Rock Idol & Zeppelin, Mother Carey’s
Kitchen
Double Diamond & Quatermass, Lundy
Mars & Soul Sacrifice, Swanage
In addition to new routes, the book also
features all new colour photography to
accompany the essays, completing
the revitalisation of this classic text.
In his original history of hard
rock-climbing, Ken Wilson spoke of
climbers before the First World War,
who ‘were deeply critical of artificial
aids in climbing’, as he reflected on
the changes the sport has undergone
through the 20th century. In Ian Parnell’s
postscript for the new 2020 edition, he
adds to this history, briefly covering the
developments in the ethics of, and
attitudes towards, climbing since the
publication of Hard Rock’s first edition.
However, Ian also notes that ‘the
average climber of today approaches
routes in much the same way that a
climber would have done 50 years ago- ground-up and on-sight; although
the 1970s climber would undoubtedly
be envious of the increased security
provided by better quality ropes and
protection’.
Not only do the essays provide
detailed accounts of climbing the
featured routes, they also provide the
insight of climbers into the relationship
between climber and landscape.
Regardless of technological advances
and developments in climbing practices,
Hard Rock remains equally relevant to
climbing enthusiasts today and those
yet to come, as there are – and always
will be – climbers who ‘are inevitably
drawn to the drama and challenge of
outdoor cliffs’. 6
Lucy Creamer climbing
Moonraker (HVS 5a) at
Berry Head in Devon.
One of the many new
photographs in Hard Rock.
Photo: David SimmoniteHARD ROCK