(Jacob Rumans) #1 may–jun 2020 21

However, it now features the additional
collection of routes:

Angel Face, Beinn Eighe

Vulcan Wall, Skye
Prophecy of Drowning, Pabbay
Totalitarian, Raven Crag

Nimrod, Dow Crag
Plane Sailing, Stackpole Head

Heart of Darkness/New Morning,
Mowing Word
Rock Idol & Zeppelin, Mother Carey’s

Double Diamond & Quatermass, Lundy
Mars & Soul Sacrifice, Swanage

In addition to new routes, the book also
features all new colour photography to

accompany the essays, completing
the revitalisation of this classic text.
In his original history of hard
rock-climbing, Ken Wilson spoke of
climbers before the First World War,
who ‘were deeply critical of artificial
aids in climbing’, as he reflected on
the changes the sport has undergone
through the 20th century. In Ian Parnell’s
postscript for the new 2020 edition, he
adds to this history, briefly covering the
developments in the ethics of, and
attitudes towards, climbing since the
publication of Hard Rock’s first edition.
However, Ian also notes that ‘the
average climber of today approaches
routes in much the same way that a
climber would have done 50 years ago

  • ground-up and on-sight; although
    the 1970s climber would undoubtedly
    be envious of the increased security
    provided by better quality ropes and
    Not only do the essays provide
    detailed accounts of climbing the
    featured routes, they also provide the
    insight of climbers into the relationship
    between climber and landscape.
    Regardless of technological advances
    and developments in climbing practices,
    Hard Rock remains equally relevant to
    climbing enthusiasts today and those
    yet to come, as there are – and always
    will be – climbers who ‘are inevitably
    drawn to the drama and challenge of
    outdoor cliffs’. 6

Lucy Creamer climbing
Moonraker (HVS 5a) at
Berry Head in Devon.
One of the many new
photographs in Hard Rock.
Photo: David Simmonite


Free download pdf