Whisky - UK (2020-05)

Issue 167 | Whisky Magazine 59

Production Port Casks

E

very type of cask has

something in common,

contributing vanilla notes

being a prime example, but

each also has something individual

to offer malt whisky. Port casks for

instance dispense strawberries,

raspberries, blackberries, sloes and

damsons, accompanied by distinct

”‹…Š‡••Ǥ—––Š‡‹βŽ—‡…‡‰‘‡•„‡›‘†

–Š‡„‘—†ƒ”‹‡•‘ˆβŽƒ˜‘—”Ǥ

“Port casks lift and lengthen malt

whisky, making it more expansive and

richer. If a fruity, malty style can be

said to sit in the middle of a piano, a

Port cask also takes this up an octave

™‹–Š‡Ž‡‰ƒ…‡ƒ†⋐‡••‡–Šƒ–‹…Ž—†‡•

minty notes with damson and dark

fruit. Port casks also take a malt down

an octave into bitter-sweet, like dark

chocolate which has a fruitiness,” says

Rachel Barrie, master blender, BenRiach

Co, which includes GlenDronach,

BenRiach and Glenglassaugh.

Such an impact requires master

blenders to play the role of matchmaker.

“You must ensure the character

of your malt is compatible with the

‹βŽ—‡…‡‘ˆƒ‘”–…ƒ•ǤƒŽ‘”‡ǡˆ‘”

example, has the body and character to

„‡ƒ’‡”ˆ‡…–β‹–Ǥ

“I’m looking for Port to display its

beautiful red fruit notes, and add a

velvet texture,” says Richard Paterson,

Whyte & Mackay’s master blender.

Casks are typically ex-ageing stock

sold by Port houses to cooperages,

which in turn supply distilleries in

Scotland. Direct relationships between

distilleries and Port houses exist, but

are rarer.

“For The Dalmore I have an exclusive

contract with Graham’s Port, stipulating

an annual number of Port casks, though

we’re also looking for any additional

casks that Graham’s Port can supply,”

adds Richard.

Port casks are coopered from

American or European oak (the

latter being more traditional). Both

‘’–‹‘•…‘–”‹„—–‡•‹‹Žƒ”βŽƒ˜‘—”•ǡ

‹…Ž—†‹‰˜ƒ‹ŽŽƒǡ–Š‘—‰Š–Š‡‹βŽ—‡…‡

of American oak is usually less intense

than European oak, which has higher

tannin levels.

The interiors are toasted (but not

‹‰‹–‡†‘”…Šƒ””‡†Ȍ—•‹‰ƒβŽƒ‡ǡ™‹–Š

the heat breaking down some of the

oak’s structural components.

Š‹•‹–—”Ǯƒ…–‹˜ƒ–‡•ǯβŽƒ˜‘—”

compounds such as vanillin (which

gives vanilla notes) within the toasted

layer of oak.

Cooperages offer varying levels of

toasting, from ‘light’ to ‘heavy plus,’

typically resulting in a two to three

millimetre toasted layer.

“Differences between European

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to malt whisky, but this also means their

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BE YON D T HE F L AVOU R

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