Whisky - UK (2020-05)

60 Whisky Magazine | Issue 167

Production Port Casks

PORT PERSPECTIVES

The tradition of using Port casks in

Scotland stems from practicality.

Port was originally exported in casks,

and bottled in Britain, resulting in

empty casks that were sold on to

Scottish distillers.

The usual choices for malt whisky

are Ruby and Tawny Port casks.

Both are a blend of wines from

different years, with Ruby Port

essentially showing ripe fruits and

Tawny Port delivering a richer, dried

fruit edge.

“The older the Port aged in the

cask the richer the fruit notes it

contributes to malt whisky,” says

Richard. With so much on offer will

we see more malt-Port liaisons?

Maybe. What we do know is that

at least for now Port casks are an

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account for around two per cent of

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malts, but it’s a cask type I’ll always

have and use for enrichment, either

in its own right or woven into a

recipe,” says Rachael.

oak and American oak Port casks are

minimal, and a light toast is usual as

any more can give a carpenter’s shed

‹βŽ—‡…‡ƒ†’”‘‘–‡Š‡ƒ˜›•’‹…‡

notes,” says Richard.

Port casks, known as pipes, have a

capacity of around 600-650 litres, and a

distinctive cigar shape.

Downsizing also happens, resulting

in hogsheads (250l) and other smaller

sizes such as 100 litres. “Smaller sized

Port casks have a more immediate

impact, giving greater sweetness and

fruit richness, but larger casks give

greater complexity, richness and depth,”

says Rachael.

As ever it’s a case of matching the

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Dz  ‘”ƒŽ‹•‡”‘”–—‹‰Š‡ǡ™‡⋐‹•Š

the spirit in ex-Port hogsheads.

“When this expression was in the

innovation stages around eight or nine

years ago, we also looked at larger port

’‹’‡•ȋ…Ǥ͸ͷͲŽ‹–”‡Ȍǡ„—–ˆ‘—†–Š‡βŽƒ˜‘—”

given by the smaller casks worked

better with the Talisker distillery

character,” says Maureen Robinson,

master blender, Diageo.

Rachael provides further

‡šƒ’Ž‡•‘ˆ—–‹Ž‹•‹‰ƒ⋐‹•ŠǤ

“Glendronach new make spirit has

a robust ‘winey’ character with

layers of dark fruit and lots of

berries, and maturing Glendronach in

—„›‘”–…ƒ••ƒ’Ž‹β‹‡•–Š‡Š‘—•‡

style with intense bramble fruit.

“Glenglassaugh new make spirit is

more buttery, with clotted cream and

’Ž‡–›‘ˆŽ—•…‹‘—•ˆ”—‹–βŽƒ˜‘—”•ǡ—•‹‰ƒ

Ruby Port cask with this transforms it

into stewed fruit with cream, fruit jam

and dark chocolate, creating a dessert-

like quality.”

Full-term maturation is a rarity,

though Kilchoman has released two

expressions matured exclusively in

Ruby Port casks.

“The three year old had a blackberry

and strawberry vibrancy, with

sweetness and lemon, citrus in the

background. The six year old had more

depth, with rounder, riper summer

fruits, and the lemon citrus was even

further in the background.

“The phenolic character was also

noticeably mellower than in the three

year old,” adds Anthony Wills, managing

director, Kilchoman.

Opening pages:

One of the big

Port houses, Taylor,

maturing casks.

These pages,

clockwise from

main picture:

Glen Moray’s 21

Years Old Portwood;

Richard Paterson;

Rachel Barrie.

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