National Geographic Traveller UK - 05.2020 - 06.2020

Lima

PERU

2 Miles

Huaca PucilanaSurquillo Market

Museo Larco

Casa Fugaz

Lima Museum of Contemporary Art(MAC Lima)

(Mario Testino’s gallery)MATE

BarrioChino

El Olivar Park

MIRAFLORES

BARRANCO

SAN ISIDRO

SAN MIGUEL

CHORRILLOS

CALLAO CENTRO

PACIFIC

OCEAN

2PM (SUNDAYS)
ALFONSO UGARTE ANTIQUES MARKET
Every Sunday, around a dozen peddlers
gather on quiet Avenida Alfonso Ugarte
for this sidewalk showcase of vintage
dishware, furnishings, artworks, tchotchkes,
books, vinyl and other treasures. Wheeling,
dealing and genteel haggling abound but
the sale is closed with lots of friendly banter
from merchants.

8PM
HUACA PUCLLANA
It’s in every guidebook, but the experience
is exquisite. A five-star restaurant splurge
in Miraflores, right next to the namesake
Lima-civilisation archaeological site. A
terrace adjacent to its adobe pyramid
and surrounding plazas, patios and
chambers serves as a brilliant dining
room for stellar people-watching and
haute Peruvian cuisine. The latter
includes impeccably turned-out quinoa
salads, tiraditos and ceviches, plus fish
and shellfish from the Pacific and nearby
rivers. More adventurous palates savour
delicacies like alpaca and guinea pig.
resthuacapucllana.com

10PM

COCKTAILS AT BAR INGLÉS

After a full day of Lima intensity, shake off

any dust (physical or psychological) with a

stiff, old-school cocktail in the Bar Inglés at

the Country Club Lima Hotel. That bone-

dry martini, heart-warming manhattan

or piquant negroni, mixed to five-star

standards, is the perfect attitude adjustment,

especially in a fine, wainscoted barroom that

rides the line with genuine Britannia fakery.

countryclublimahotel.com

4AM

LATE-NIGHT SUPPER AT SIETE SOPAS

A soaring industrial space, awash in neon

and favoured by post-nightlife refugees,

the Surquillo branch of Siete Sopas (open

24/7) has diners clustering at long, shared

tables that quickly lead to bonhomie. Nightly

limited fixed menus (sandwiches, pasta,

chicken) showcase one of seven soups that

are Peruvian regional classics, including

a sui-generis minestrone, a stick-to-your

ribs beef and bean potage, or sancocho,

an originally Caribbean stew that’s packed

with meat, potatoes or cassava and corn

on the cob.

Getting there & around

British Airways offers the only direct

flights from London to Lima. ba.com

Average flight time: 12h35m.

Although buses connect central

Lima, Miraflores and Barranco a car is

the best way to explore the sprawling

city. Inexpensive taxis abound

(negotiate fares before boarding)

and Uber is well established.

When to go

Lima’s climate is temperate and dry,

with negligible rainfall (less than

6cm annually). Winter (June-

October) temperatures range from

15-20C; summer (November-May)

temperatures from 16-27C.

Places mentioned

Hotel Casa República.

casarepublica.com

Hotel B. relaischateaux.com

MAC Lima. maclima.pe

Pedro de Osma Museum.

museopedrodeosma.org

MATE – Museo Mario Testino.

mate.pe

Larco Museum. museolarco.org

Queirolo. bodegaqueirolo.com

Piano Bar Munich. facebook.com/

pianobarmunichoficial

Monumental Callao.

monumentalcallao.com

More info

peru.travel

visitlima.pe

How to do it

CHIMU ADVENTURES can arrange

travel around Lima, accommodation

at Hotel Casa República (Barranco),

and airport transfers.

chimuadventures.com

ESSENTIALS

Lunch at Huaca Pucllana, in Miraflores, a restaurant
that serves a mix of contemporary and classical
Peruvian dishes

ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER

120 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

LIMA