Eastern and Central Europe (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

(Ben Green) #1

108 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp116–17


Often referred to as Estonia’s summer capital,
Pärnu has historic buildings, pastel-coloured
wooden houses and elegant late 19th-century
villas set along leafy streets. With an ultra-
modern concert hall and theatre, the town
also has a noteworthy cultural scene. All the
main sights are within walking distance from
the town centre and the Old Town is centred
around the pedestrianized Rüütli Street.
However, Pärnu’s main draw is its beautiful
beach where Estonians flock throughout the summer,
transforming the town into a thriving holiday spot.


Pärnu 3


P Pärnu Concert Hall
Aida 4. Tel 445 5800. #
11am–8pm daily (box office).
& 7 = http://www.concert.ee
Completed in 2002, the
Pärnu Concert Hall
(kontserdimaja) is a source
of great pride for the local
people. Designed by three
architects – K Koov, K Nõmm
and H Grossschmidt – the
curvaceous glass and steel
building is a strong example
of modern Estonian archi-
tecture. Its seashell-like shape
was intended to symbolize
Pärnu’s status as a coastal
town. The multifunct ional
building mostly hosts theatre
perform ances and concerts,
although it also houses an art
gallery and a music school.

P Town Hall
Uus 4/Nikolai 3.
The elegant Neo-Classical
building that is now the Town
Hall (Raekoja) was erected in
1797 as a wealthy merchant’s
residence. In 1819, the struc-
ture was altered to serve as the
house for the town’s governor
and, in 1839, it took on its
current function as Pärnu’s
Town Hall. What makes it
worth visiting is the magnif-
icent Art Nouveau extension
built in 1911. Its brooding
dark exterior is in total con trast
to the bright yellow façade
of the original struc ture and
provides a fasci nating
juxtaposition of two radically
different architectural styles.


R Elizabeth’s Church
Nikolai 22. Tel 443 1381. # Jun–
Aug: noon–6pm daily; Sep–May:
10am–4pm Mon–Fri. 5
http://www.eliisabet.ee
An excellent example of local
Baroque architecture, this
church (Eliisabeti kirik) has
an elegant ochre exterior
and a maroon spire towering
above the surroun ding
narrow side streets. It was
founded specifically as a
Lutheran church in 1747 by
the Russian Empress Elizabeth
(1709–61). Today, it serves
as the largest Protestant
place of worship in Pärnu.
The wood-panelled interior
is refined and understated,
but all the more impressive
for it. The church’s spire was
built by Johann Heinrich
Wülbern, who also con-
st ructed Rīga’s St Peter’s
Church. Elizabeth’s Church is
also renowned for its organ,
one of the best in Estonia, built
in 1929 by H Kolbe of Rīga.


R St Catherine’s Church
Vee 16. Tel 444 3198. # 9am–5pm
daily. 5
Built in 1768 for the Pärnu
garrison during the reign
of Catherine the Great, St
Catherine’s (Ekateriina kirik)
is arguably the finest example
of a Baroque-style church in
Estonia. With bottle-green
domes and lemon-yellow
walls, the church boasts an
elegant exterior and opulent

P Tallinn Gate
Mere puiestee.
The only trace of the
17th-century ramparts that
protected Pärnu at one time,
Tallinn Gate (Tallinna värav)
still offers a fas cinating
glimpse of the once impres-
sive fortifications. Until 1710,
when Swedish rule came to
an end, it was known as
Gustav’s Gate, named after
King Gustav II Adolph of
Sweden. Today, the gate’s
only function is to provide an
elegant portal between the
Old Town and the area
leading to the sea. The
cobble stoned passage way
offers a relaxed walk.

interior. Intended as an
architectural showpiece,
St Catherine’s had
a significant influence on
Orthodox churches
throughout the region.

Green domes and yellow walls of
St Catherine’s Church

Wooden
door carving

Tallinn Gate, sole remainder of Pärnu’s 17th-century ramparts
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