CENTRAL WALLONIA 207
Basilique
St-Materne i
Rue de la Basilique 12, Walcourt;
18 km (11 miles) S of Charleroi.
Road Map C3. Tel (071) 611366.
£ @ n Grand Place 25; (071)
daily. & treasury.
A large 13th- to 15th-century
church, Basilique St-Materne
is distinguished by its turrets
and peculiar onion-shaped
tips on its spire. Said to be
founded by the 4th-century
St Maternus of Tongeren, the
church became a pilgrimage
site focussing on devotion to
Notre Dame de Walcourt, a
wooden statue dating from
the 10th century (with 17th-
century silver plating) that
now stands in the north tran-
sept. This history explains the
basilica’s size, as well as the
richness of its interior, which
includes a flamboyant Gothic
jubé (rood screen), believed
to have been presented by
Charles V in 1531. The
church’s Treasury also has
many exquisite devotional
objects, some of which may
be the work of the great
13th-century goldsmith
Hugo d’Oignies (see p202).
Environs
Philippeville, 9 km (6 miles)
to the southeast, was a for-
tress town built by Emperor
Charles V in 1555 and mod-
ernized by the French military
architect Vauban in the 17th
century. The fortress was
demolished in 1860, leaving
10 km (6 miles) of under-
ground passages, called Les
Souterrains, part of which can
be visited by a guided tour.
Les Souterrains
Philippeville. n Rue des Religieuses
2; (071) 662300. # Jul–Aug: 1:30–
3pm daily. http://www.philippeville.be
http://www.valleesdeseauxvives.be
Château
de Vêves u
Noisy 5, Celles-Houyet; 8 km (5 miles)
SE of Dinant. Road Map D3.
Tel (082) 666395. # Jul–Aug:
10am–5:30pm daily; Apr–Oct:
10am–5:30pm Tue–Thu, Sat & Sun.
& http://www.chateau-de-veves.be
Perched on a grassy hillock
with massive walls, five tall,
cone-topped towers and high
windows, the 15th-century
Château de Vêves resembles a
child’s drawing of a fantasy
castle. Its half-timbered galler-
ies overlook a fully enclosed
courtyard. Parts of the interior,
such as the huge medieval
kitchens, are pleasingly robust,
but the private family rooms
have been softened by 18th-
century refinements. The
Seigneurs de Celles, who took
The medieval frame and conical
towers of the Château de Vêves
Meuse. Originally a medieval
fortress commanding the
river, it was destroyed by the
French in 1554, then rebuilt as
a palatial residence in fetching
Mosan Renaissance style,
with touches of French
château grandeur, between
the 16th and 18th centuries.
This was the home of the
influential dukes of Beaufort-
Spontin. Louis XIV of France
stayed here during his siege of
Dinant in 1675 and, later that
year, signed the Treaty of Freÿr
with Charles II of Spain. In the
1770s, the Austrian governor
of the Netherlands, Charles of
Lorraine, was a visitor.
The château is still owned
by the 20th generation of the
Beaufort family. Its Italianesque
interior is decorated with
wood panelling, tapestry,
paintings and murals. Outside
is a large formal garden in
18th-century French style,
with parterres, fountains,
pools, an orangery (with
300-year-old orange trees),
follies, hedged mazes and an
ornate Rococo pavilion over-
looking the River Meuse.
The name Frëyr relates to
the legend that Freya, the
Scandinavian goddess of
fertility, stopped to rest here
in a cave on the rocky banks
of the Meuse, and had to be
rescued from a band of
naughty Nutons – the elves
that play a major role in
local mythology.
Stately grandeur of the Mosan Renaissance Château de Freÿr
possession of a fortress on
this site in the 12th century,
came from the Beaufort family,
and their descendants still use
the castle as a residence, giving
it the rare feeling of live-in
continuity. The nearby village
of Celles is considered to be
one of the prettiest in Wallonia.