New_York_Magazine_-_March_16_2020

march 16–29, 2020 | new york 51

CAFFÈ PANNA’S

Affogato Sundae

The smooth, classically French dinnertime omelet is a surprisingly rare

occurrence these days, and the one found at this bountiful new brasserie is a

veritable dissertation on the joys of old-fashioned technique, texture, and taste.

LE CROCODILE’S

LEKKA BURGER’S

Cheese Fries

This “cheese” sauce is completely vegan:

It’s butter beans, oats, and agave, blitzed in

a food processor. They could sell tubs of it, but

until then, the best place to find it is drizzled over

some classic crinkle-cut fries.

On paper, combining the wanton excess

of the American ice-cream sundae with the

espresso-laced gentility of the Italian affogato

sounds very wrong; in the cup, amid

the drizzles, swirls, and crunch, it tastes

lip-smackingly, mind-bogglingly right.

THE FULTON’S

Black Sea Bass en

Croute

Leave it to Jean-Georges Vongerichten to revive

this culinary anachronism, which is locally

sourced, technically perfect, lovely to look at (the

pastry is fashioned with a smiling fish face and

fins), and, most important, delicious to eat.

HAO NOODLE’S

Dan Dan Noodles

Bowlfuls arrive slicked with pork fat and seasoned

with sieved Sichuan pepper, imparting more of a

faint buzz than an obliterating numbness. All the

better to perceive creamy sesame, pungent garlic,

pickled vegetables, and the bite of scallion and chile.

TÉ COMPANY’S

Taiwanese Braised

Pork Over Rice

It’s not just the taste of Frederico Ribeiro’s lu rou

fan—salty-sweet braised local pork belly, deftly

cooked California sushi rice, pickled daikon,

an optional tea-steeped egg—that differentiates it;

it’s the way it perfectly suits its serene

Taiwanese-tea-parlor setting.

BEST of NEW YORK

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march16–29, 2020 | newyork 51

CAFFÈPANNA’S

AffogatoSundae

Thesmooth,classicallyFrenchdinnertimeomeletis a surprisinglyrare

occurrencethesedays,andtheonefoundat thisbountifulnew brasserie is a

veritabledissertationonthejoysofold-fashionedtechnique,texture,and taste.

LE CROCODILE’S

LEKKABURGER’S

CheeseFries

This “cheese” sauce is completely vegan:

It’s butter beans, oats, and agave, blitzed in

a food processor. They could sell tubs of it, but

until then, the best place to find it is drizzled over

someclassiccrinkle-cut fries.

On paper, combining th excess

of the American ice-cream sun e with the

espresso-laced gentility of the Italian affogato

g; in the cup, amid

andcrunch, it tastes

d-bogglingly right.

THEFULTON’S

BlackSeaBassen

Croute

Leave it to Jean-Georges Vongerichten to revive

this culinary anachronism, which is locally

sourc

past

fin

HAO NOODLE’S

Dan Dan Noodles

Bowlfuls arriv at and seasoned
with sieved Sichuan pepper, imparting more of a
faint buzz than an obliterating numbness. All the
bettertoperceivecreamy sesame, pungent garlic,
pickledvegetables,andthebiteofscallion and chile.

TÉ COMPANY’S

Taiwanese Braised

Pork Over Rice

It’s not just iro’s lu rou

fan—salt k belly, deftly

cooked California sushi rice, pickled daikon,

an optional tea-steeped egg—that differentiates it;

it’s the way it perfectly suits its serene

Taiwanese-tea-parlor setting.

BEST of NEW YORK