INTERVIEWSAMANTHA JONESPORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHYSHARYN CAIRNSFOOD PHOTOGRAPHYCHRIS COURTSTYLINGKIRSTEN JENKINSTHE CHEF AND
THE BUTCHER
A:Hallelujah – we’re finally doing goat!
Ilikegoats.They’readaptable–theydon’t
need much care or attention, they eat
everything, they’ll live on land that
nothingelseliveson.Interestingly,
Australiaisthebiggestexporterofgoat
meatintheworld,yetwe’rethesmallest
consumer.Wedon’tappreciate it as much
as other cultures.
C:Youhavetoworkfortheflavour in goat,
Ithink.It’sadifferenttexture.
A:Letmetalk.Thereasonwehaven’t
takentogoatisbecausewe’vegotlamb.
Lambiskinghere.Butgoatsarehardy
andresilient,justlikeme.Andsmart!
C:You’reabitmoremarbledthangoat.
I’mmoregoat–you’remorehogget!
A:Goatisleaner,soyou’dusuallyuse
it in casseroles, curries and braises.
C:Iagree,itneedsmoisture.
A:The texture of goat is resilient, but
whenyouminceit,youbreakdownall
that texture. So mince is a good way to
eatit–makerissolesormeatballs.Why
arewedoingkofta?Weshould do the
great Australian rissole.
C:IfIputkoftaonamenuinarestaurant,
it’sgoingtomakealotmoremoneythan
arissole.Nowadays,peoplearelearning
that we need to find other meats than our
usualbeef,chickenandlamb.Butgoat is
notseenasamainstreammeat.
A:Goat is wild meat. This year has to be
theyearofwildandnutritionalvalue–
abitlikemeandyou.Thethingwithwild
meat is that it has a higher nutritional
valuethancommerciallygrownmeatlike
chicken, pork and beef. This is the year
of eating less meat, but better quality.
C:It’s the year of not being beige. Go
outside your comfort zone.
A:Askyourbutcher
for wild meat like
goat. Persevere.
C:The best way to
introduce people to
goat is mince I think, and this kofta is
easy. I like a lot of spices – coriander,
cumin, chilli, paprika. And when you’ve
madeyourkoftamix,justcookalittlebit
inapanandmakesureyou’veseasoned
itproperly.Theywillalsofreeze really
well,somakeabatch.
A:Oh yeah, that’s a good tip. Let’s rock
the goat!GOAT KOFTA, YOGHURT PITA
BREAD AND CUMIN BUTTER
SERVES 4
You will need 8 metal skewers for
this recipe.700g minced goat shoulder (order from
your butcher)
100ggoat or beef fat (order from your
butcher), finely chopped
2garliccloves,crushed
1tbseachgroundcoriander
andgroundcumin
1 tsp each chilli flakes and smoked
paprika, plus extra smoked paprika
to serve(^1) / 4 cup fresh coriander, finely chopped,
pluswhole leaves to serve
1tbsplainflour
(^1) / 2 cup (50g) fresh breadcrumbs
1 egg
1largeredonion
2 tbsextravirginoliveoil
300g Greek yoghurt or labneh
Whiteandblacksesameseeds,pickled
green peppers and dried mint, to serve
Could this latest recipe fromColin Fassnidgebe
hisGreatestOfAllTime?It’scertainlygoatalot
goingforit–evenbutcherAnthony Puharich
doesn’t feel the need to skewer our chef.
YOGHURT PITA BREAD
2cups(300g)self-raising flour, sifted
300g Greek yoghurt
CUMIN SEED BUTTER
1tbsunsaltedbutter,melted
1 tbs cumin seeds, toasted, crushed
Tomake the kofta, combine mince, fat,
garlic,spices,choppedfreshcoriander,
flour,breadcrumbsandegginabowl.
Coarselygratehalftheonionandaddto
the mixture (slice remaining onion into
roundsandsetaside).Seasonandstirto
combine. Roll into 8 equal meatballs, then
shape each around a metal skewer into a
long egg shape. Chill until needed.
Forthepitabread,combineflour,^1 / 2 tsp
salt and^1 / 4 tspfreshlygroundblackpepper
inabowl.Addyoghurtandbringdough
togetherwithaspoon.Turnoutontoa
worksurfaceandkneaduntilsmooth.
Divide into 4 balls and roll out into ovals.
Heatachargrillpanorbarbecuetohigh
heatandbrushbothsidesofthepitaswith
1tbsoil.Cookfor3minuteseachside
or until golden and charred. Set aside.
Brush kofta with remaining 1 tbs oil and
addtopan.Cook,turning,for6-8minutes
formedium,oruntilbrownedalloverand
cookedtoyourliking.Restfor5minutes.
For cumin seed butter, combine
ingredientsinabowl,brushoverpitaand
halve.Spreadpitaswithyoghurtandtop
with koftas, extra paprika, onion, coriander,
sesame seeds, peppers and dried mint.
46 delicious.com.au
MEAT MARKET.