Australian Gourmet Traveller - (11)November 2020 (1)

Omnia

OpenedNovember 2019

WhoLarryKestelman(owner)andStephenNairn(chef)

VibeCasualhigh-endbistroforlocalscenesters.

VerdictChefStephenNairncookssomeofthebest,mostfinessed

bistrofoodin town– pastrycigarsfilledwithsmokedoceantrout

andlemoncrèmefraîche,Gruyèrecustardtartwithmarinated

capsicum,dry-agedporkbellywithroastedpeach– in a huge,

surprisinglywell-servicedroomkittedoutforcomfortandSouth

YaYarazzledazzle.A voluminouswinelistcompletesthepicture.

625 Chapel St, South Yarra, (03) 8080 8080, omniabistro.com.au

VICTORIA

EDITED BY MICHAEL HARDEN

The Hardware Club

OpenedNovember 2019

WhoAndreaCeriani(co-owner)and Nicola Dusi (chef and co-owner)

VibeRetrocoolMelb-Italian.

VerdictIt’sflavouroverdogmaatthisstylishretrodinerthat

deliversnorthernItaliantrattoriagoodsthrougha distinctly

Melbournefilter.ChefNicolaDusicombinesbigflavourswithan

impressivelydeftsenseofbalance– Brusselssproutselevated

bytonnatosauce;radicchiotossedwithhoney,walnutsand

lentils;raviolistuffedwithtoe-curlinglygoodossobuco– plus

solidItalianwineandthoroughlygood-naturedservice.

Upstairs, 43 HardwareLane, Melbourne, (03) 9670 1110,

thehardwareclub.com

Fromfarleft:BeefbunsandarakatMaha

Bar;TedescaOsteria’swelcomingdining

room; fried sardines at The Hardware Club.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 65

PHOTOGRAPHY

PARKER

BLAIN

(MAHA

BAR)

& JAMES BROADWAY (TEDESCA OSTERIA).