Australian Gourmet Traveller - (11)November 2020 (1)

Cafe Paci

OpenedNovember 2019
WhoPasiPetänen(chefandowner)
VibeA cool,casualtasteofEuropein(mostly)snackform.

VerdictPasiPetänenbringshisFinnishheritageto
a modernAustralianmenuofmostlysmall,shareable
plates.Cloud-likepillowsofpotatocomesmothered
ina richtroutsaucethatradiatesmellowheat.It’sXO
butnotasyouknowit. Startwiththedevilledeggs

• buttery,whippedyolktoppedwithsaltyburstsoftrout
  roe– andworkyourwaythroughtosourdoughpastaor
  ClarenceRiverprawns.A nattywinelistofpredominantly
  ItaliandropscomescourtesyofGiorgiodeMaria.
  131 King St, Newtown, (02) 9550 6196, cafepaci.com.au

Restaurant Leo

OpenedJune 2020

WhoFedericoZanellato(chefandco-owner)and Karl Firla (co-owner)

VibeCleanandminimalistMediterranean.

VerdictTuckedawayinaninner-citylaneway,RestaurantLeo

is thedestinationofchoiceforthoselookingtoindulgeinan

old-fashionedlonglunch.Theminimalistdecoris mirroredby

themenu,whichoffersa handfulofrefined,seasonaldishes

thatherosingleingredients.Rubyredtunacrudocomes

bathedinthickgoldenoliveoil,whilethekoshihikaririsotto

withcuttlefishis a glossy,blackflavourbomb.A truffle-infused

tartufomayjustbethebestnewdishintown.

1/2-12 Angel Place, Sydney, (02) 9235 3383, restaurantleo.com.au

The Gidley

OpenedNovember 2019

WhoPipPratt(headchef),JamesBradeyandWarrenBurns(co-owners)

VibeAnAmerican-stylesteakhouseina labyrinthineden.

VerdictOld-schoolcharmmeetspuregluttonyatTheGidley,

a crackingbasementsteakhousebytheBisteccacrew.Thereis

beef,ofcourse,andboyis it good;the220gmspinalisthepick

offourprime-ribroastcuts.Otherhighlightsincludea prawn

cocktailcompletewitha sideoffriedprawnheads,a meticulously

layeredpotatogratin,anda zingysaladofshavedBrussels

sproutsjewelledwithpeas,cornandhazelnut.Settleintoa plush

velvetboothandsipbig,juicyredsfromPiedmonttoBurgundy.

161 King St, Sydney, (02) 9169 6898, thegidley.com.au

Ho Jiak Town Hall

OpenedMarch 2020

WhoJundaKhoo(chefandco-owner)andWilliamXie(co-owner)

VibeThebuzzy,neon-litsisterofa Chinatownstalwart.

VerdictSydney’sthirdHoJiakoutpostis big,bustlingand

offersanimpressivemenuofpunchyMalaysianfareaswe’ve

cometoexpectfromitsfirsttwo.Portionsaregenerousand

madetoshare;wok-kissedcharkwayteowcomesadorned

withyourseafoodofchoice,wagyuis slowcookeduntilbutter

softina fieryrendangcurry,whileduckandchickeneggs

combineina silkycustardknownassamwongdan.Quirky

andcolourfulcocktailsareaccompaniedbya decentwinelist.

125 York St, Sydney, (02) 8065 6954, hojiak.com.au

Clockwisefromtopleft:InteriorsatMimi’s;
CafePaci’schickenliverParis-Brestwith
onionjam;dishesatHoJiakTownHall;
relaxed Mediterranean vibes at Una Más.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 67