24 FEBRUARY 2020
OBSESSIONS
THE INTERVIEW JT: I’m touched by how
passionate you are about
food and everything it
represents. Does living
in the East Bay [of the
San Francisco Bay Area],
such a food-driven place,
fuel your journey?
RBM: That’s a large part
of it. I can eat at different
places and have com-
pletely different experi-
ences. I’ve always gone
to restaurants owned
by women and people of
color, so I’ve never had
an impostor feeling in the
kitchen.
JT: Do you like being on
TV?
RBM: I love it. At first it
was stressful to do com-
petition TV, but toward
the end, I realized I’m
going to win or I’m not
going to win, but at least
I’m going to have fun.
JT: You sounded like you
were smiling when you
said that. What’s the
most fun part?
RBM: Getting to cook
with anything I want and
having creative ideas.
In a competition, you’re
trying to do your best
while being concise. I also
love getting to work with
equipment I don’t have
at home.
JT: You’ve also cooked
in so many restaurants
and had so many experi-
ences. Does one stand
out more than another?
RBM: Even though every
kitchen is different, they
share certain qualities,
like teamwork and orga-
nization. I play tennis and
I’m part of a leadership
team there, so I help out
with younger kids. Tennis
is really cool in regards
to cooking because it
shares the qualities
of working with other
people as well as with
yourself.
JT: That’s so interesting
because I think of tennis
as an individual sport.
RBM: Tennis isn’t about
winning or losing; it’s
about playing the best
you can under stress and
pressure—that’s also
part of cooking.
JT: So without overthink-
ing, what do you love
most about being in the
kitchen?
RBM: Using recipes from
my family and learning
more about my family
through the food.
This interview has been
edited and condensed for
clarity.
A FEW YEARS AGO, Rahanna Bisseret Martinez
reached out on Instagram to invite me to watch her
compete on the first season of Top Chef Junior. My
wife and I cheered her on as she became a finalist,
then staged at Chez Panisse Café in Berkeley, Com-
père Lapin in New Orleans, and Wolfgang Puck at
Hotel Bel-Air in Los Angeles, and worked with chefs
like Emeril Lagasse. Her maturity and determination
would be impressive at any age, and knowing she’s
part of the future of food makes me optimistic. We
spoke on the phone as she prepared to cook at the
James Beard House in New York City. —JULIA
TURSHEN, FOUNDER OF EQUITY AT THE TABLE (EATT)
AND AUTHOR OF NOW & AGAIN
On Stage 15-year-old
chef Rahanna Bisseret
Martinez has her whole
career in front of her.
LIGHTNING ROUND
The most recent thing
I cooked was beignets
with Earl Grey
powdered sugar.
I put The Great
British Bake Off on
my screen of choice
when I need to escape
for an hour.
Beyoncé’s music
makes me energized.
I think of the farmers
market when I need
some inspiration.
My fridge always has
fresh herbs waiting
for me.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: NICO OVED
