Food & Wine USA - (02)February 2020

(Comicgek) #1

FEBRUARY 2020 25


At Senia in Honolulu, British chef
Anthony Rush transforms beef Wel-
lington—a classic cold-weather dish
of beef wrapped in puff pastry—into
a hypnotizing work of edible art.
Rush uses the juices from spinach,
tomatoes, beets, and carrots for his
artist’s palette; trickier colors like
black and blue come from hay ash
and violet flowers, respectively, while
spices like saffron add flavor and tex-
ture to the dough. He patiently carves
out the intricate patterns—inspired by
his mother’s quilt work—using cookie
cutters and sometimes carves them
freehand. Dig in at Senia (restaurant
senia.com), and see Rush’s handi-
work on Instagram @restaurantsenia.

WELLINGTON,


IS THAT YOU?


These savory pastries
are a feast for the eyes.

(DON’T)


PARDON


OUR


FRENCH


Chartreuse, an
herbaceous French
liqueur, is hardly the
new kid on the
cocktail block, but
American bartenders
are finding innovative
uses for the 400-year-
old formula. Green or
yellow, Chartreuse is
having a moment.
Here are some of our
favorite sightings.


  1. At Elysian Bar in New
    Orleans, the Ojos Verde
    (which means “green
    eyes” in Spanish) is a
    bright, powerful mix
    of tequila, mezcal, and
    green Chartreuse, plus a
    bit of lime and cilantro.

  2. The Trat Frappe at
    cozy Cambridge, Mas-
    sachusetts, hot spot
    Pammy’s is an unexpect-
    edly warming medley of
    Chartreuse, pineapple
    gum, absinthe, and Fen-
    timans dandelion and
    burdock soda.

  3. Chef’s Special Cock-
    tail Bar is set to open
    in Chicago mid-January,
    and their Yesterday Man
    cocktail packs a punch
    with rye, yellow Char-
    treuse, Cynar, and a hint
    of jasmine.

  4. Take a tour of Europe
    in a single glass at L.A.’s
    Bon Temps, where the
    Bijou features Spanish
    and Italian vermouths as
    well as green Chartreuse.


New, Next, Now Great ideas to bring home

to your dinner table, bar cart, and beyond

By Oset Babur

TRENDSPOTTING


PHOTOGRAPHY: RYAN YAMAMOTO. ILLUSTRATION: WINSLOW TAFT

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