110 MARCH 2020
- Wearing gloves, crumble Thai chiles
into a medium-size heatproof bowl. Add 1
cup hot water; let stand 15 minutes. Drain
chiles; discard liquid. Process chiles, oil,
and garlic in a mini food processor until
chiles are very finely chopped, about 30
seconds, stopping to scrape down sides
of bowl as needed. - Heat a large skillet over medium. Add
chile mixture; cook, stirring constantly,
until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add pork;
cook, stirring occasionally to break pork
into small pieces, until browned, 6 to 8
minutes. Stir in tomatoes, soybean paste,
1 tablespoon fish sauce, sugar, and
paprika. Cook, stirring occasionally, until
tomatoes break down, 8 to 10 minutes.
Reduce heat to low; cook, stirring occa-
sionally, until liquid has reduced and pork
is coated with sauce, 8 to 10 minutes. - Meanwhile, separate cilantro stems
from leaves; tie stems together with
kitchen twine. Chop leaves to yield about
(^1) / 2 cup; set aside for garnish. Stir together
chicken broth, cilantro stems, and
remaining 1 tablespoon fish sauce in a
medium saucepan. Cover and bring to a
simmer over medium. Uncover; remove
and discard cilantro stems. Cover broth;
keep warm over medium-low.
- Prepare rice noodles according to
package directions. Drain noodles, and
divide evenly among 8 serving bowls
(a b o u t^2 / 3 cup each). If using, add zucchini
ribbons and cabbage to hot broth; cook
over medium-low until just tender, 30 sec-
onds to 1 minute. Using tongs or a spider,
remove vegetables from broth, and divide
evenly among serving bowls (about^1 / 2 cup
each). Top each bowl with about^1 / 4 cup
pork mixture and 1 cup hot broth. Sprinkle
bowls evenly with mint and reserved
chopped cilantro. Garnish with black pep-
per, and serve with lime wedges.
—VAN AND VANVISA NOLINTHA, BIDA MANDA,
RALEIGH, NORTH CAROLINA
MAKE AHEAD Noodles can be cooked up
to 4 hours in advance and held in cold
water. Broth can be made up to 4 hours in
advance. Pork mixture can be cooked and
stored in an airtight container in
refrigerator up to 3 days ahead.
WINE Lime-inflected Australian Riesling:
2018 Jim Barry Lodge Hill
NOTE Shop for Thai chiles, soybean paste,
and banh pho noodles at your local Asian
market.
Egg in a Bagel Hole
TOTAL 10 MIN; SERVES 2The perfect use for leftover bagels, this
version of toad in the hole gets dressed up
with everything spice, smoked salmon,
and dollops of caviar or sliced avocado.
Adding water to the skillet helps cook the
eggs evenly without burning the bagel
halves, resulting in a lightly toasted bagel
wrapped around a perfectly runny yolk.1 everything bagel, split
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
2 large eggs
1 Tbsp. water
Kosher salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
2 oz. cold-smoked salmon, for
serving
Caviar or sliced avocado, for
serving- If needed, carefully widen holes in bagel
halves to 1^3 / 4 inches in diameter using a
paring knife. Spread bagel halves evenly
on both sides with butter. Heat a 12-inch
skillet over medium. Place bagel halves,
cut sides up, in skillet. Cook until golden
brown, 2 to 3 minutes. - Flip bagel halves cut sides down.
Reduce heat to low; crack eggs into bagel
holes. Pour 1 tablespoon water around
edge of skillet, and immediately cover
skillet. Cook until egg whites are set and
yolks are cooked to desired degree of
doneness, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer bagel
halves to a plate; season with salt and
pepper. Serve with smoked salmon and
caviar or sliced avocado. —NIKI RUSS
FEDERMAN AND JOSH RUSS TUPPER, RUSS &
DAUGHTERS, NEW YORK CITY
Laotian Khao Soi
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 55 MIN
SERVES 8The Nolintha family omits coconut milk in
their version of this warming dish of chile-
laced pork over rice noodles in a fragrant,
brightly flavored broth. This light khao soi
is traditionally eaten for breakfast, but
works for dinner, too.5 dried Thai chiles
1 cup hot water
3 Tbsp. canola oil
3 medium garlic cloves, smashed
1 lb. ground pork
2 small plum tomatoes, chopped
(about 1^1 /^4 cups)(^1) / 4 cup soybean paste (such as Healthy
Boy)
2 Tbsp. fish sauce (such as Red Boat),
divided
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. paprika
1 bunch fresh cilantro
8 cups lower-sodium chicken broth
14 oz. uncooked dried^1 / 8 -inch-wide
banh pho rice stick noodles
2 cups zucchini ribbons (shaved
using a Y-shaped peeler, avoiding
and discarding squash seeds)
(optional)
2 cups shredded napa cabbage
(optional)
(^1) / 2 cup chopped fresh mint
Black pepper, for garnish
Lime wedges, for serving
FAMILY MEALS from p. 109