MARCH 2020 111
Beet-and-Lemon Shrub
TOTAL 20 MIN, PLUS 2 DAYS
REFRIGERATION
MAKES ENOUGH SHRUB FOR 14 COCKTAILS
A shrub is a sweetened, flavored drinking
vinegar that makes for a refreshing cocktail
base. Start the shrub several days before
serving; it takes time for the ingredients
to meld. Fresh beet juice is key—purchase
it from a juice bar, or make it at home;
shelf-stable bottled beet juice won’t have
the same flavor or vibrant color. Mix with a
touch of vodka to stiffen and some seltzer
for spritz, then serve this low-alcohol
cocktail—it’s perfect for brunch.
SHRUB
5 cups water, divided
(^1) / 2 cup granulated sugar
2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
1 cup fresh beet juice
1 cup fresh lemon juice
COCKTAIL
2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) vodka (optional)
Chilled seltzer
1 lemon wheel, for garnish
- Make the shrub: Whisk together 1 cup
water, sugar, and vinegar in a large bowl
until sugar is dissolved. Stir in beet juice,
lemon juice, and remaining 4 cups water.
Cover and refrigerate at least 2 days or up
to 1 week. - Make a cocktail: Combine^1 / 2 cup beet
shrub and vodka, if using, in a mixing
glass; fill glass with ice, and stir until
frosty. Strain into a large coupe or wine
glass. Top with a splash of seltzer, and
garnish with lemon wheel. —NIKI RUSS
FEDERMAN AND JOSH RUSS TUPPER, RUSS &
DAUGHTERS, NEW YORK CITY
MAKE AHEAD Shrub can be covered and
stored in refrigerator up to 1 week.
Enfrijoladas
TOTAL 2 HR 10 MIN, PLUS 8 HR SOAKING
SERVES 4
A creamy, savory black bean puree
drenches tortillas in this hearty vegetarian
dish. The instructions here call for cooking
beans from scratch; the starchy bean cook-
ing liquid from cooking a full pound of
beans is needed to achieve the correct
sauce texture. Stir leftover beans into
soups, or serve as a side dish for Picadillo-
Stuffed Leaves (recipe p. 40). Avocado
leaves serve a similar purpose as bay
leaves—imparting deep flavor before being
removed prior to serving, leaving a faint
fennel-like flavor behind. Substitute fennel
seeds if avocado leaves are unavailable.
BLACK BEANS
1 lb. dried black beans
5 cups water, plus more for soaking
beans
1 small white onion, peeled
3 medium garlic cloves, smashed
2 dried avocado leaves or^1 / 8 tsp.
fennel seeds
1 epazote sprig, rinsed and roughly
chopped (about 3 Tbsp.) or^1 / 2 tsp.
dried oregano
1 Tbsp. fine sea salt
ENFRIJOLADAS
1 chile de árbol, stemmed and
toasted
(^1) / 2 cup plus 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil,
divided
12 (6-inch) white corn tortillas
Fine sea salt, to taste
8 oz. Oaxaca cheese or low-moisture
mozzarella, torn into strands
2 oz. queso fresco, crumbled (about
(^1) / 2 cup)
Thinly sliced white onion and
chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for
garnish
- Make the black beans: Place beans in a
large pot; add water to cover by at least 2
inches. Let soak at least 8 hours or up to
overnight. Drain beans.
- Combine drained beans, 5 cups water,
onion, garlic, and avocado leaves in a
large pot; bring to a boil over medium.
Cover and reduce heat to medium-low;
simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans
are tender and creamy, 1 hour and 30
minutes to 2 hours. Remove from heat.
Remove and discard onion, garlic, and
avocado leaves. Stir in epazote and salt.
Drain beans, reserving cooking broth. - Make the enfrijoladas: Combine chile,
2 cups cooked beans, and 2^1 / 2 cups bean
cooking broth in a blender. (Reserve
remaining 4 cups beans and any remain-
ing cooking broth for another use.) Pro-
cess mixture until smooth, about 30
seconds. Set aside. - Heat^1 / 2 cup oil in a large skillet over
medium. Fry tortillas, 1 at a time, until soft
and pliable, 10 to 20 seconds per side;
transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper
towels to drain. Set aside. - Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a
medium saucepan over medium. Add
bean mixture; cook, stirring often, until
simmering, 4 to 5 minutes. (The consis-
tency should be similar to heavy cream;
stir in water or additional reserved cook-
ing broth,^1 / 4 cup at a time, if needed to
loosen.) Remove from heat; season with
salt to taste. - Place 1 tortilla in hot bean mixture in
pan; let soften, about 15 seconds per side.
Place tortilla on a serving plate, and fold in
half. Repeat process with remaining 11
tortillas, placing 3 folded tortillas on each
of 4 plates. - Spoon remaining hot bean mixture
evenly over tortillas (about^1 / 3 cup each).
Sprinkle evenly with Oaxaca cheese and
queso fresco; garnish with sliced onion
and chopped parsley. —FROM OAXACA:
HOME COOKING FROM THE HEART OF
MEXICO BY BRICIA LOPEZ AND THE LOPEZ
FAMILY, WITH JAVIER CABRAL, GUELAGUETZA,
LOS AN G ELES
MAKE AHEAD Black beans can be cooked
up to 4 days in advance; bean puree can
be made up to 2 days in advance. Cover
and refrigerate both; thin bean puree with
a splash of water if needed. Tortillas can
be fried up to 4 hours in advance.
NOTE Avocado leaves and epazote may be
purchased at Latin markets or online.
BEER Lightly malty Mexican lager: Modelo
Especial. (Turn the Modelo into a
michelada using Guelaguetza I Love
Micheladas mix.)