Sulfating: A condition called “sulfating” kills batteries. Dried battery acid
forms a crust in the internal plates that inhibit the flow of electrons. Sulfating is
caused by acid leakage or by overcharging of the battery. If the condition is due
to acid leakage, it’s probably because vibration has worn a hole in the case
(either the battery is loose within its case or there’s a loose body or frame part
rubbing up against the battery). If the battery is being overcharged, it could be
due to a bad alternator, a bad voltage regulator, or an electrical short in the
system.
Electrical shorts: A dead electrical short can kill a battery as well. A wire, an
electrical junction block, an electrical component, an electrical relay, or a switch
can go bad, closing an electrical circuit directly to the battery. This is called a
short circuit. It goes undetected while the vehicle is running. However, when you
shut the vehicle off, electricity is drawn directly from the battery. This
phenomenon is referred to as a “parasitic electrical draw.” If an electrical draw is
evident, each circuit within the vehicle must be tested to determine the source of
the draw. Once the offending circuit is identified it must be painstakingly traced
down to the root cause of the voltage loss and repaired.
Bad alternator or belt: A faulty alternator or a loose drive belt can kill your
battery, so make sure the alternator and drive belt are up to snuff.
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