Take the muffler as an example. The pattern card or an old catalog
may tell the under-car expert how long the muffler should be, what
diameter pipes it must fit and whether it has one inlet and outlet or two
inlets and one outlet on each end. Then the shop will install a modern
muffler of the right size and configuration. It will work, but it may look
nothing like the muffler the car came with when new. In fact, it is
possible that the inlets and outlets could be spaced differently than a
stock muffler, which could affect pipe angles and clearances.
Several hobby companies custom bend exhaust systems for old cars
and a few of them reproduce obsolete muffler designs. In some cases,
these suppliers offer exhaust pipes and mufflers in OEM-style mild steel
or in rust-resistant stainless steel. The systems do not come with
hardware, which must be purchased separately. These systems are
usually close to original, but there may be variations in the design of
certain hardware items, such as engine pipe flanges, and the muffler may
not have the original factory stampings, such as part numbers or
directional arrows.
For some lucky do-it-yourselfers, another option is finding an NOS or
NORS (new-old-stock/new-old-replacement-stock) exhaust pipe, muffler
or other exhaust parts at swap meets or in the back room of an old parts
store. There are a lot of pipes around that have lost their paper tags, but
sometimes an experienced exhaust installer will know certain pipes by
sight.
If you’re lucky enough to find a “remainder” pipe that you can identify
at a swap meet, chances are it will be a bargain. Vendors are anxious to
sell such inventory and we have sometimes saved as much as 50 percent
on the purchase of an untagged, leftover pipe. Sometimes, the length,
shape or bends on such pipes will tell you what they fit.
As for nuts, bolts and washers, U-bolts, brackets and hangers, replace
these items as they come off when removing the old exhaust system.
Determine the threads and lengths of fasteners, the number and type of
washers needed, the size of the U-bolts (sometimes more than one size)
and the number and design of the hangers and brackets. New studs may
also be needed, and if a “100 percent stock” look isn’t your goal, we
suggest the slightly more expensive type that have a hex on the end so
they can be installed with an Allen wrench. For systems in which bolts
tend to loosen when heated, it may also pay to use wedge-type lock
singke
(singke)
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