washers in place of the conventional split-ring style. U-bolts can easily
snap, so keep a few extras on hand.
When installing a stainless-steel exhaust system, use stainless-steel
hardware. This may require universal-style hangers, since no company
makes all of the different factory-type hangers in stainless. However, for
those “cult cars” mentioned earlier, complete stainless-steel exhaust
system kits with matching factory-style hardware can often be found.
Tools and Equipment
When we were young and foolish — and broke — we installed several
exhaust pipes with the car jacked up and propped on ramps. This gave
us just enough room to slide under the vehicle, and the work was dirty
and sloppily done. If we did not have a Backyard Buddy lift, we wouldn’t
even attempt under-car repairs today. If you don’t have a lift, make a
deal with a friend or fellow club member to secure some lift time for
your exhaust system install.
Spend a little money for at least a chain-type exhaust pipe cutter,
pound-in-type pipe expander tool, good hack saw, good chisel, safety
goggles and some sturdy work gloves. Even the cheapest exhaust tools
will work fine — for a while. If an air compressor is accessible, get an air
hammer and air chisel. Hammers and pry bars should also be kept
handy.
The Install
For this article, we assume there are no issues attaching the engine
pipe or Y-pipe to the exhaust manifold flange. Some cars have studs that
point down and pass through holes in the flange(s) on the end of the
pipe(s). Other cars have bolts that go through the flange(s) and thread
into the manifold. Cars may also have modifications, such as manifolds
that are machined so bolts replace the original studs, or longer bolts that
simply pass through holes in the exhaust manifold flange with a nut and
washer to tighten them at the top.